So Neal Martin has just posted an article entitled In Need Of Four-Leafed Clovers - Saint Emilion 2003. It is a refreshing article because it seems Mr. Martin is not going with the company line that 2003 Bordeaux is a brilliant vintage. I have always hated the wines as most of them are hot, oaky, over-extracted, soupy, not fresh and waaaaaaay out of balance.
Just some of the more glaring dissimilarites.
2003 Chauvin - NM (78) " . . .already falling apart."
2003 Chauvin - RP (89) "It will provide lovely drinking now and over the next decade."
2003 Joanin-Becot - NM (81) "Simple but not unpalatable."
2003 Joanin-Becot - RP (90) " . . .is both a hedonistic and intellectual turn-on . . ."
2003 Chateau l'Hermitage - NM (79) "The palate is surprising subdued with low acidity, abrasive tannins, simple oaky and lacking freshness. Drink now."
2003 Chateau l'Hermitage - RP (90) . . ."medium body, low acidity, a soft, round, hedonistic, plush personality, and a slightly diffuse finish. Drink it over the next decade."
2003 Quinault l'Enclos - NM (75) "The palate is low in acidity, rather bland and yet again lacking freshness and definition. A couple of sips is enough."
2003 Quinault l'Enclos - RP (89) "Exhibiting a deep ruby/purple hue along with a sweet nose of blueberries, licorice, and flowers, it is all about finesse, balance, and purity."
2003 La Gaffeliere - NM (69) "Oh dear. A stewed, prune-scented nose is followed by an over-extracted, cloying palate that is monotonous and uninteresting. Does not know the definition of freshness. Past its best."
2003 La Gaffeliere - RP (92) ". . .ratcheted up the quality level since Michel Rolland’s team was installed as consultants."
2003 Peby-Faugeres - NM (82) "Port on the finish: and we are not talking Taylors or Nacional here. Ho-hum. Drink now."
2003 Peby-Faugeres - RP (93) "Full-bodied and opulent with low acidity, huge glycerin and flavor density, and a spectacularly long, flamboyant finish, this exotic, intense St.-Emilion reflects this interesting vintage."
You get the point. So Parker hires Neal Martin and Neal Martin obviously has a different, more British palate than Bob. Martin is publishing notes on wines Parker has rated highly and they are significantly lower and the notes are very different. Like they are tasting two different wines. If I was running the WA I would toss Parker out on his ass and give Martin the mantle and that would definetly change Bordeaux. I want Neal Martin. I want Neal Martin! But enough of that pipe dream.
And one aside on the hypocrisy of it all. People on his BB cannot be contrarian when it comes to criticizing his scores on spoofy Bordeaux or Rhone without grizzled old men like Neal Mollen or sycophants like Jeff Leve attacking them yet big poobah Parker is paying someone to contradict him. And he is contradicting him very well.
Thursday, December 6, 2007
Thank god for Neal Martin
Posted by
Lyle Fass
at
11:22 AM
Labels: Bordeaux, Neal Martin, Robert Parker
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10 comments:
"...without grizzled old men like Neal Martin.."
Typo?
changed.
I love these kind of comparisons.
Years ago, WS did an issue in which they compared Burgs to Cal pinot to Oregon pinot. The scores for each wine were All Over The Place. Many wines were incorrectly identified as to place of origin. It was hilarious and yet hit home that Every Wine Reviewer views a wine differently.
". . .ratcheted up the quality level since Michel Rolland’s team was installed as consultants."
After years of evolution, the resultant top of the food chain in the spoofilated ecosystem.
Okay, let's make up our minds here: "Spoofilated" or "Spoofulated"? And why?
M.
Joe D. spells with a "u" - his neologism, his prerogative - but the "i" spelling looks much more correct to the eye and has the added advantage of paralleling with "mutilated."
I have to get the OED's take on this...
M.
Very interesting post--especially since I own the 2003 Ch. Quinault. Parker's barrel score on that wine was a 92, WSpectator gave it a 90, Tanzer an 89. So the scores were varied to begin with, but Martin's review certainly adds a note of complexity to the story. It will be interesting to see what ordinary drinkers think. Those who've opened up the Ch. Quinault on CellarTracker already place it squarely in the 88-90 range, but a few mention there is nothing exceptional there.
Once again we see that each person's palate is different. The key to finding trustworthy reviews is finding a reviewer with a similar palate.
winescorecard.com
Dr. Debs,
Granted Neal Martin is of a British palate and they have never been a fan of the Alain Reynaud's style of wine or wines in that group. I also think he was hired to even out the Advocate along with Schiz-nizzle . . . .
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