The Phoenix Garden Tasting Group Converges

Had a fun, raucous tasting on Thursday night that brought us to the Phoenix Garden, which was excellent as usual, and then for some late night grappa at Convivio (which destroyed me), desert more beer and wine. The group was thirsty and there were many different oddities and and even a classic or two in there to quench our thirst.

The first wine that appeared in my glass was the 2006 Donati Malvasia Candia which was a dry sparkling Malvasia from Emilia-Romagna. This was an eye opener for me as the limited number of Sparkling Malvasias I have had have left me quite cold. This was fresh, dynamic, bone dry, with wonderful acidity and tons of earth and minerality. Usually Malvasia is a grape I associate with opulent fruit like Gewurztraminer but this was restrained, pure and incredibly balanced. A wonderful starter. Now the order is a bit off because as the evening continued my order became off.

There was a bottle of something from Hungary that had Harslevelu, Furmint and Welschriesling and was wonderful. Not austere like 100 percent Furmints but kind of fat and juicy like a Hungarian take on St. Veran. I totally forgot the name and vintage of this wine.

Next up was a bottle of 2005 Donnhoff Weissburgunder "S" which was even better than the Grauburgunder I posted on last week. This had a lovely deep nose of mineral, lime, some spicey oak, apple and pear. The palate was delicious and rich with the flavors on the nose echoing the palate. It was amazing how well the oak was integrated and how different it is from the great Weissburgunders of Baden and the Pfalz. Less minerality, more fruit and not as austere as those wines, This was at peak and drinking perfectly and had that trademark Donnhoff elegance and dissolving finish.

There was an 1983 Leth Weissburgunder Auslese from Austria which was okay. What was interesting is that it still had varietal character on the nose. Soft notes of apple and pear and a little mineral. Palate was ok but probably over the hill. Drink 'em if you got 'em which I am sure you all have. I mean I have two cases of '83 Leth Weissburgunder Auslese lying around.

Next up was a slamming bottle of 2005 Zidarich Malvasia. Slightly orange-colored with lovely nose of sea salt, mineral, some light kiwi and pineapple fruit. Wonderful floral quality. The palate was clean and pure tasting with rocky minerality and excellent, pure, clean, vivid fruit. Drinking great now but I am sure would be much more interesting in five years.

There was a sniff.....sniff.....snifff.......corked bottle of 1990 Trimbach Clos St. Hune.

Next up was a 1998 Domaine Leflaive Batard-Montrachet which proved to be a dissapointment. Not Pre-Moxed but just dull and did not show Grand Cru cut and character. Kind of flabby with acid and minerality out of balance with the fruit. I have had some ok '98 Jadot Grand Cru's and Leflaive is better than Jadot so I was expecting something a bit more interesting.

Now onto the reds.

A great bottle of 1978 Lopez de Heredia Vina Bosconia which of course showed a youthful yet aged quality that a middle aged Lopez has. There was definite raspberry and other dark red fruits on the nose along with chestnut, forest floor and a wet stoney minerality. Burgundian to say the least. The palate had tremendous concentration and purity. Pinpoint, precise acidity and a lovely elegant, pure and filigreed palate. A treat and a great bottle of Spain's answer to Burgundy.

There was a Brazlian Merlot that I liked alot. It had grit, character and earthiness plus some delicate Merlot fruit. Very good even though some people disagreed with that assesment.

Bordeaux made its presence known in the form of a 1990 Roc de Cambes. Deep chocolate on the nose with plum, cherry and some dusty earth. Palate was nicely balanced with good depth and ripe tannins that were slightly resolved. Good stuff but not earth=shattering.

A strange bottle of 2000 Chateau Ste. Anne Bandol "Cuvee 98% Mourvedre" brought by me pretty much sucked. Brett city on the nose and the palate was spritzy. Just weird. Has not aged well. I have one more bottle. I'll see where that is in a couple of years.

Then there was a mini-comparison of the 2006 vs. 2005 Emrich-Schonleber Monzinger Fruhlingsplatzchen Spatlese. Each one really showed their vintage character. The 2005 was beautiful with clean flavors and excellent complexity. While the '06 was a bit clumsier still with good fruit but a bit out of sorts. I'd wait on it for ten years.

There was also beer that was delicious. One was Black Ops by Brooklyn Brewery which was a small production Stout and I don't remember the others. Then we wondered over to Convivio and thats when a lovely bottle of Primitivo was open as was another beer and some grappa. It blurs then. Fun night.