Monday, March 15, 2010

Can Sauvignon Blanc be profound? - 2005 Francois Cotat Les Monts Damnes

This is a question wine people love battling it out for. There is a dearth of great SB out there and what is considered great is usually not too great, and what is considered good, usually is poop. SB has a lot going against it. First of all it is considered a "beginner" grape, as that, along with Chardonnay, are the two staple whites at the bottom the great varietal wine ladder. Plus, in my experience you need really great terroir and conscientious wine-making to make great, if not, profound Sauvignon Blanc. Because there is only so much the grape can do, because it, like Chardonnay, is not inherently great. It needs stuff. Look in Sancerre, which is the most popular French Sauvignon Blanc in the world, but really only the best stuff comes from a small hilltop enclave called Chavignol. There is a lot of bad Sancerre out there. Even with the status of the name "Sancerre" most of the stuff is insipid, innocuous, overproduced, yeasted wine. This is a result of Sauvignon Blanc being not that great a grape and one that needs terroir, and usually great terroir to be a great wine. Look at the great ones. Silex, Pur Sang from DD, Pascal and Francois Cotat's Les Monts Damnes, Les Culs de Boujeau, La Grande Cote, Clos de Neore from Vatan and the various higher end cuvees of Gerard Bouley. Pouilly-Fume has no really great terroir and what DD did was more genius in his winemaking and vineyard work than anything else as Pouilly-Fume has such a famous name but only two producers I'd drink. DD and Deschamps. Not that good a ratio. White Bordeaux is nearly never 100% Sauvignon Blanc, less Smith-Haut-Lafite and Clos Floridene, so cannot really count it. Plus all that oak. Ewwwwwwwww! California....ummm....I like the Lail one, but it's like $75, and most of it is too ripe and oaky. In Austria the stuff can be good but never mindboggling or even close. It's usually like 'this is really good for Austria', someone eventually says and that is that. Australia, next! New Zealand who bet their whole wine biz on Sauvignon Blanc, and in my opinion failed as they pigeon-holed themselves into a mediocre wine-making country when the future is really Pinot Gris, Riesling and Cab/Merlot cool-climate blends. Oh and I do like the fun ones from the Loire that aren't supposed to be regal like Touraine, Quincy, Reuilly, etc. They are nice and not trying to be too important. Maybe that is profound in their own way?

All this ranting leads me to a quick note on a bottle of the 2005 Francois Cotat "Les Monts Damnes" which was very good but not at all profound. As I opined on Facebook, I thought it was more Les Monts Damnes than SB the first night. It was devastatingly mineral to the point where it almost crunched. I was feeling it. The acidity was present but not your typical laser-like lime infused Sauvignon Blanc acidity. It was pretty '05 in that is was ripe as all hell, but not blowsy, although on day 2 the heat started to poke through. On day 2 also it became more Sauvignon-like and less good as there was all the typical stupid Sauvignon Blanc stuff like gooseberries, high toned citrus etc. which covered up the cool chalky minerality. The fruit was more rich and there was a weird peanut butter flavor that was there and only gaining in momentum. This was a good wine and in no way profound, but I don't think I have ever had a profound Sauvignon Blanc now that I think about it and I think the reasons can be summarized in bullet points.

  • Not an inherently great grape like say Riesling
  • Not enough good terroir and when the terroir is great it still is not that great a finished wine
  • It's too easy too make passable, drinkable, varietally correct Sauvignon Blanc so why bother with greatness when it won't be that great anyway?

15 comments:

  1. My all time favorite wine debate.

    I love SB with BBQ. There i said it. I like blowsy, drink me all night, wake up with a huge hangover, innocuous white wine.

    I also love pursang. I get a little twitch and slight knot in my belly as I insert the wine key. There aren't many other wines that are guaranteed to rip your face off every time you pull the cork.

    Long live DD.

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  2. Hi Lyle

    Any Grapes besides from Riesling. that you would consider inherently great ?

    Neil

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  3. List of inherently great grapes (grapes that don't need great or even decent terroir to be exciting and interesting)

    Riesling
    Chenin Blanc
    Nebbiolo
    Vermentino
    Rieslaner
    Palomino


    Was gonna include Pinot but low-end Pinot usually blows. So scratch Pinot.

    So much bad Cab Franc but I gave it a thought.

    That's the short list Neil, but I am sure there are more.

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  4. Scholium Project Glos and Miani are close to profound as you can get with SB.

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  5. Hi Lyle......not many SB wines I would rave about...Cotat is one...maybe Vacheron
    BUT
    Essential to try if you get it in the USA....
    Vie de Romans Piere
    Friaul, Italy
    I prefer this to the more oaked Vieris

    the 2004 & 2005 are just lovely...classy, elegant...no cat's pee or extreme gooseberry...I must check the terroir there...after your post

    Regards

    Barry

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  6. Vermentino. Soo underated. I would rob a liquor store for a bottle of arena right now.

    I'm curious about nebbiolo on this list. can you expound?

    It's interesting that most of those grapes don't require great terroir but are also pretty transparent.

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  7. Iuli,

    Nebbiolo grown almost anywhere in Piedmont with zero to no manipulation, I find is a joy to drink. Hell I have even enjoyed the few CA Nebbiolo's I have had. One from a Mt. Veeder guy and one from Ahlgren (sp), the same people who make that great Semillon. Transparency is the key to a good grape as it is a prism into the terroir.

    SB and Chardonnay and Cab and Merlot to bash these varietals for a second all have classic flavors and the terroir really needs to be amazing for it to poke through the vapid, innocous flavor spectrum of these grapes.

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  8. Barry,

    I've liked VDR in the past and there can be some interesting SBV grown in Alto Adige and Friuli with some interesting terroir aspects but I've grown away from that wine, maybe I should revisit.

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  9. Can SB be great? Hell yes !
    WOuld you drink a Rousseau when it's 5? Hell No !

    Cotat is the 1st to admit that between 5 and 7 years old, his wines do not show well, are not in a comfortable zone.
    Give it another chance in 5 years and hopefully you'll be pleased.

    People like Cotat or Boulay make wines meant to be cellared and enjoyed when ready to go. Those wines avoid that boring SB varietal profile. With time, I challenge anyone to distinguish between those and a Chablis. "Question de terroir" !

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  10. Rock on.

    Did you ever taste wine out of the mystery case of 1979 Ghemme at Felidia?

    It was not on the inventory sheet for about 10 years. The box was water damaged and stored directly under a skylight in the warmest part of the cellar.

    But what was in the bottle, wow. In a blind tasting I would have insisted the Ghemme was made by Giacosa. It's hard to describe. It was effortless and perfect.

    So yea, I hear you on the no name terrior for Nebbiolo. I've had some off of mt veeder that I also liked. Wasn't it the former proprietor from frogs leap that planted those vines?

    anyway, good explanation.

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  11. Arno,

    You kind of put yourself in a paradox with your comment. You say SB can be great, then you say as the ones that age (Cotat, Vatan, Labaille, Boulay) they lose all their SB flavors and the terroir shines through. So is the SB great or the terroir?

    Andrew,

    I did not but have had numerous no-name nebs from Felidia and other places that have led me to this conclusion.

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  12. Lyle,

    Very good remark, you're right maybe it's the terroir which shines in that case.
    But could it be also that this transformation of SB towards a Chablis like profile (or any other complex form) is also a true expression of SB? That it is the way it is supposed to evolve when vinified the 'right' way.

    But I totally see your point and you have me wonder...
    Should be a great question to ask to those guys (Boulay, Vatan etc...).

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  13. Arno,

    Also the Mosel, Chablis, Champagne, Chavingol all lie on top of a huge Kimmeridgian deposit, so that might make al these wines similar with age. That would be a very cool tasting. Take one vintage, and do a horizontal of those wines.

    Say 2002. Get a Fritz Haag Juffer-Sonnenuhr Spatlese Trocken, a Dauvissat Valmur, a Vatan Clos de Neore and a Larmanider-Bernier BDB and taste them all blind in 2020. Then we shall know if it is the grape or the terroir.

    Regarding SB, as it evolves in say areas like California (say Araujo or Scholium) or New Zealand this character does not exist at all, so it must mean that the terroir is the only thing that makes the SB palatable in early life and THEN the terroir absorbs it and it becomes a great wine.

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  14. That's a cool and awesome idea for a tasting !
    So when should we do it? :-)

    I agree with you on SB in NZ or any other places than France. It does not evolve at all the same way, so the terroir is definitely a major reason.

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  15. Lyle,
    I would recommend Sepp Muster's SB Graf from the Southern Steiermark, Austria. This wine is imho a profound SB.

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