Thursday, April 29, 2010

2008 Foillard Morgon Cuvee Courcelette and Morgon Cote de Py - Ugh . . . .

Foillard, when the wines are on, there is nothing better in Morgon, even surpassing Lapierre, but unfortunately they are not on too often. I have finally taken a position on 2008 Beaujolais and my position is the vintage is really not great. Most of the wines have grit, high acid, are lighter than usual and lack freshness. Also many are unbalanced. There are exceptions like the Coquelet (Descombes son) Chiroubles VV, but they are very few and far between. Back to Foillard. The '07 CDP was brilliant and sang from day one and was spoken about in hushed tones by the geek audience, but the '08 CDP, which I have had twice, has been terrible each time. Thin, acidic, out of balance, hot, shrill, almost dead on the palate, and with around 15 extra helpings of brett. Brett is expected in good vintages of Foillard as a component that can add complexity, but more often than not, it takes over some Foillard wines. Minimal sulfur seems to be the culprit. The '05 showed lots of brett and I only had one good bottle, in France, out of 5 or 6. The 2008 Foillard Morgon Cuvee Courcelette is from sandy soils and usually is more accessible than the CDP. It's a bit more pricey than the Morgon CDP, and for that I have yet to understand why, as the CDP is a better wine. The '08, brought over by a friend last night was better than the CDP, but still was a lackluster effort. Showed an interesting nose of mineral, tweed, light cherry tones but seemed dull. The palate was pretty balanced but had a distinct lack of freshness. Everything just seemed to be on mute. The acidity was ok, but it tasted like boring, run of the mill industrial yeasted cheap Beaujolais. As my friend said, if I am paying $35 for a Beaujolais, I expect it to not only be good, but considering how most Beaujolais is priced, it should be a reference point wine. It was not. It just left me puzzled. Yes it is [i]vin natural[/i], so I expect some funkiness and bottle variation, but my experience with Foillard is more wildly inconsistent than even Lapierre, and when Foillard wines are off, I am more dissapointed than normal because the highs they attain (1999 CDP and one bottle of 2005 CDP), can be higher than Lapierre, and on par with a great Thevenet, which is even rarer than a great Foillard. I'll have a little more tonight to see if it improved, but I know it will have not as for the swan to appear there has to be a hint of swan to start with and not all ugly duckling.

11 comments:

  1. I agree that the 08 Côte du Py is much more thin and acidic than the 07 (tasted twice). I had hopes for it fleshing out, though, a week ago. (Maybe wishful thinking.)

    I didn't get any brett on it.

    Overall, I'm more sanguine about Foillard than you seem to be. Most times, his stuff kicks ass.

    Strange about US pricing.

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  2. Sounds like you are dealing with heat damaged bottles of Foillard and Lapierre. Bottles I sourced from the KL shop in Berkeley, earlier this year, of Lap. MMVII, Foillard '08 CdP, and Foillard '08 CC were much different in my glass than what you describe.

    Very different.

    -Levi D

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  3. Sharon,

    I have noticed people's sensitivity towards TCA is similar to their sensitivity towards Brett. There can be a bottle open amongst four people that has brett and all four will have wildly different reactions from overhwhelming, to indifference, to "this really adds complexity, to "this wine has no brett."

    I'll keep trying them as the highs, as I said are amazing. But as the prices go up and the variability stays the same, it might be off my shopping list pretty soon.

    Levi,

    It's bottle variation I think, but could be wrong. The Courcellette was from CSW and the storage there is top-notch, as you know. Bacchus has it in for me when it comes to Beaujolais these days.

    The first CDP I used at a tasting and was CSW sourced, the second was at KL the other day. They did not seem heat damaged. If any had to be heat damaged, I would out my money on the 2008 Courcellete as it had that "mute" quality I get in a lot of heat damaged wines.

    BTW the MMVII at Kermit was much better I thought than the bottle I nursed at my house.

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  4. Sounds like bad bottles which is a shame; the 2008's I've had have been killer and possibly with less bret than ever? Go figure...

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  5. Can you please just stop with the fucking wine discussions? Don't you watch movies anymore? Any new cacti?

    Burp,

    The H

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  6. Hmmmm, weird stuff. I've had grumpy bottles of Foillard, bottles that just didn't show well for some time after they landed. They have always come around, and when they did, they have been consistently outstanding. Never had more than a touch of brett, not that I'm super-sensitive. I've had a few 08 CdP's already. They've been a little reserved, but I wouldn't call any of them thin.

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  7. Yea I need a movie review up soon. I just got get the one I want in my queue.

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  8. Dude, must have opened it on a root day...

    Brian

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  9. yeah, i prefer the 07's of both foillard wines too, but i've had both 08's and they've been beautiful. remember that time Joe D opened an 06 CDP tasting at chambers and you guys had to decant for 6 hours before it stopped smelling like a laundry room? i really like the foillard 08's so far. perhaps not as serious as the 07's, but that's fine too.

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  10. Neil,

    Glad you like them. My favorite style of Beaujolais is not semi-carbonic but traditional Burgundian style, but when the gang of four is on, they are great and startling examples of Morgon, but my favorites are Desvignes and Descombes, for style and consistency.

    Why would Dressner open a Foillard at a CSW tasting? I do not remember that at all. I remember the '05 Bojo tasting at CSW and Thevenet showing horribly.

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  11. Tried some Foillard 08's a few weeks ago (presented by Jean in UK) and agree with you about the CDP, thought it was awkward and thin (the Classique 08 also didn't impress at all). However, I thought the Courcelette was much more together; richer with much more depth. The best of the bunch. Sounds like a lot of bottle variation this vintage.
    Also tried his Fleurie ('07) for the first time-delicious.

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