Monday, June 4, 2007

. . . .and the wine is . . . .

2002 Clos Rougeard Breze. This is one of top Chenin's of the Loire Valley. A wine that needs loads of age to fully express what it says. This is not a drink me now wine. It is a serious complex wine completely expressive of place. It is a very difficult wine to assess young as there is oak and there is structure. But there is a core of really fine, pure intense Chenin fruit. It's there..maybe not in the pure benevolent form but it is still there. In a wine like this where something this good that's "there" will definetly eventually evolve into a serious presence on the palate. When you reach this wine at its apogee down the road it will be a reward for cellaring this stuff. There is not much around. Complex, ethereal stuff. My boss, David Lillier had the 1935 at the estate and said it was one of the top wines he has ever had. This guy know Chenin.

Anyway this stuff is good and ageable is one of the great wines of the Loire Valley if not the world....and it is dismissed in this review by Robert Parker, the world's leading wine critic, as a "palate cleanser." Most people who have never heard of Clos Rougeard white will be like this is some high-priced Loire wine that is quaffable. That is frightfully inaccurate and is conveying barely any of this wine's importance. It irks me. These people work hard and make some of the most interesting red wines on the planet and the first time the wines are reviewed by the wine advocate they are dismissed like tons of other anonymous white quaffers. It just sucks that people will not know. And wine geeks will chime in "shhhhh" or something like that but I just don't buy that line. These people make great wine and should get all the possible recognition coming their way. I am not talking about the score. I have no idea what it was. But that review is so lifeless and uninspiring and conveys nothing about this wine. Rant over. Tn's soon!

8 comments:

  1. does Parker review Loire or is it Schildkeschnizzle now? If it's still Parker - name one Chenin he has reviewed that you have agreed with!

    ReplyDelete
  2. This is a "Hedonist's Gazette entry. Schildneckt comes out soon with his 1st report.

    ReplyDelete
  3. At least he didn't follow it up with a Valtellina Superiore...

    It is an annoying dilemma. The fact that Parker doesn't like the Loire keeps the region almost completely un-Parkerized, which is good. But so many people take his word as gospel that it is such an uphill battle to convince anyone that a wine he hasn't blessed is worth drinking.

    ReplyDelete
  4. I'm firmly on the side of this being a blessing, but i'm not in retail trying to sell these wines. It can't last forever, though. AG has already written about Pepe, and Valentini and Paolo Bea can't be far behind. Likewise for DS and Clos Rougeard or your other favorite Loire producers. All will be assimilated.

    Schildneshizzle has a nice ring to it btw

    ReplyDelete
  5. In a more serious mode, you're of course correct that the producer deserves their due. There are some notes on the eBob site from a 2004 Executive Wine Seminars tasting of Loire wines. I don't know who the writer is, but the 2000 Le Bourg got mad props.

    ReplyDelete
  6. The writer had to be Bob Millman who writes up all the EWS stuff.

    ReplyDelete
  7. If they liked the 2000 Le Bourg, imagine if they'd tried the '01 or '02!

    ReplyDelete
  8. Sssssssh.

    Nadi's self-image needs no repair. And last time I checked, the prices showed plenty of respect.

    You should check with David, but I bet he was talking about the '21 sweetie.

    These are funny wines. Almost the only chenin with new oak that I can take. But they really need time, and if you don't drink much chenin, I can see how you'd miss it in a crowd.

    ReplyDelete