Thursday, April 23, 2015

A Moment That Stops Time: Perhaps the Most Perfectly Balanced Bourgogne Made: The Micro Production Wines of JJ Morel (Limited)

I drank a bottle of the 2012 Jean Jacques Morel Genouvrees the other night and time stopped.

It's very difficult for me to describe the perfection of this wine.  The 2012 was by no means a powerful or overly fruited wine (it is Bourgogne Blanc after all).  But is was one of the most well crafted Chardonnays I've had.  The balance was perfect.  So perfect that it just washed across my palate and I sat there in awe.

The Puligny is more concentrated and just as well made.  It's an absolutely stunning wine.  Borderline Grand Cru quality with a simply gorgeous,  long finish.  An affordable taste of what premium white Burgundies can taste like.

Wines like this can only be made in incredibly small lots where every detail is obsessed over by a man who does not do this to make money but rather for pure love and enjoyment.

I have not offered the absolutely brilliant Burgundies of Jean Jacques Morel in almost a year.  I had a terrific visit with Jean Jacques this past March in Burgundy and managed to get a very small allocation of his 2013s. They blew my mind. I had a massive headache hit me around 10 minutes before we arrived at JJ Morel's estate in the sleepy hamlet of Gamay. I had an internal debate. Anyone who knows me, knows these headaches render me debilitated and useless, but I made my mind up and it did not matter, I was going to taste with Jean Jacques as he is hard to get in touch with and I was on my way and I wanted some more wine. He took me through a tasting of his 13's and I was blown away by the sheer quality. From '12 to '13 he has raised the bar again for what you can achieve with natural methods in Burgundy. He uses a skoche of sulfur at bottling to give stability to the wine. He calls himself "98% Natural."

I am thrilled to offer the best Bourgogne Jean Jacques has made, the 2013 Jean Jacques Morel Bourgogne "Genouvrees", for as little as $26.99 a bottle on a 4-pack.  This wine is pretty much perfect.  It ismmensely popular and should be. You cannot get more out of a Bourgoge Blanc if you tried. So complex, so long, so alive, so pure. Incredible purity, concentration and freshness. It is impossible to stop drinking this wine!  So Chardonnay. Just unreal. I've gone through 6 of the 2012 and 2013 is a very short vintage and my allocation is less than 2012 so I am hoping you will share.

I also have a small amount of the 2013 J.J. Morel Puligny-Montrachet, for as little as $45.99 on a 3-pack. The 2013 takes the quality to a higher level than ever. There is almost Grand Cru cut on this Puligny, with such intense sappiness but also amazing purity and freshness with riveting and palate cleansing acidity. This is a profound bottle of Puligny. The finish is minutes and it so clean you cannot believe it. With the strong dollar and even after a price increase from the estate,  it still is cheaper than the 2012 ($47.99), and even better.  This is for people who drink Leflaive, Ramonet and the such but also for people who drink predominantly natural wines from Loire, Beaujolais and the Languedoc. It is the perfect example of noble terroir and natural wine-making blended together in an accessible package. This will be allocated.

2013 Jean Jacques Morel Bourgogne "Les Genouvrees" - $28.99 
($107.96 4-pack) (LIMITED)

2013 Jean Jacques Morel Puligny-Montrachet - $48.99 ($137.97 3-pack) (VERY LIMITED)


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