'07 Knipser Blauer Spatburgunder Trocken

Tonight I had a spectacular glass of Spatburgunder at Terroir downtown. Knipser is a winery I have not had that much experience with and what experience I had was pretty bad. Some terrible aspirin-like Riesling trockens that I had bought from Winebid for $25 a bottle which I still have some left. Ugh. Anybody wanna come by and drain some crappy Knipser '02 and '01 Trockens? Well this wine changed all my perceptions of Knipser and hooked me up into the cult of Knipser. They are a top of the pile estate in Germany and more famous for their red wines than their white wines, which I won't argue with after those crappy trockens and the spectacular Spatburgunder I had tonight. The wine was opened for me as it probably is not that popular an option by the glass, which is how was ordering it. Immediately the aromas intrigued me. This was a deep wine aromatically with loads of red fruits, spice, but in a very layered way. Nuanced earthy notes started to develop as the wine aerated. Fruit got deeper. The palate was lovely, velvety and had a trace of that bitterness that Spatburgunder haters hate on but Spatburgunder lovers revel in. I was reveling. This wine resides in the darker side of the Pjnot spectrum as say a Dugat-Py would. If there was oak it was perfectly integrated as it did not stick out. It was aged in used oak barrels I just read on the website. Long complex finish with some of that Pfalz minerality and ripe, elegant, sweet tannin. Concentrated but not overly so but perfectly so. What struck me about this wine was how complete it was. If there is one complaint I have about some Spatburgunders is that when they fail there is always one component that just sticks out, whether it is acidity, greenness or oak, it is there and dominates the wine. This was a big wine, but it did indeed come across light, and spoke of the Pfalz so well. Not in the same ballpark as California or either Burgundy. A true wine of place. $16.50 a glass and worth it to me.