More Musings and Missives from the LDM 2010 tasting

So here is Part Deux of notes from the LDM 2010 extravaganza which will be the final installment, but don't think you are rid of me yet as I go to a comprehensive Kermit Lynch tasting tomorrow with 25 producers and countless more wines.

Eric Texier, Eric Texier, Rhone Valley

Eric Texier is my favorite person in the whole wine world. Speaks great English, has a killer sense of humor, loves film, is very charismatic and lest I forget makes killer wines from a range of Rhone appellations. I am always excited to chat and taste with Eric and this year was no exception.

The 2008 Cotes-du-Rhone Blanc shows Eric's particular skill with white wines. Some people believe he makes the best whites in all of the Rhone. I don't disagree. This was lovely, ripe and very pure white wine that was supremely balanced and had killer acidity. The acid in Eric's Rhone whites is always on pointe and brings these wines to life on your palate. Not too complex yet very filigreed wine from such a humble appellation. A great vintage for this. The 2007 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc was brilliant. This is a wine that gets so much better each year. Cannot wait for the 2008 as cooler vintages always play up the greatness of Eric's whites. This had a lot of fruit, as to be expected from the 2007 vintage, but had great acids, which made it a nice juicy explosion on the palate. Super elegant the whole way through with bright vivid minerality and a great finish. I taste so many CDP blancs and they seem empty and lacking soul. Never for this wine. So focused and pure with whatever fruit the vintage gives it and great mineral depth. I like it better than his reds. The 2008 Brezeme Blanc Roussane is a stunner as usual. The wine had an elasticity on the palate, being chewy yet acidic at the same time with lovely yellow fruits and tremendous depth. This had that waxey, lanolin thing you get in Rhone whites, but not in spades, just as a component. A part of the whole but definetly a distinct flavor in this wine. I love how Eric's whites are not just a required part of his portfolio but a focus. The 2008 Cotes-du-Rhone was a touch bitter and had a non-linear structure and was out of sorts when I tasted it. On the other hand the 2008 Brezeme Rouge was great. A high acid red for sure. This also had good fruit and was very elegant, but was a bit lean and needs time to settle into itself. In 6 months this will be rockin' as all the components were there. Wow. Wow. The 2007 Brezeme Rouge VV "Domaine de Pergault" was a certifiable freak show, and I say that with great affection. Downright Burgundian, a tough thing to pull off in 2007, with gorgeous velvety dark fruit, sinewy earth notes, juicy acids, and an elegant yet very "there" structure. Amazing quality of tannin. Long finish that is bursting and explosive. Instant wow wine. The 2007 Cote-Rotie was very good, albeit a bit young. I always like Eric's Cote-Rotie on the young side. This had a firm structure but was still classic CR with violets, olives, dark fruits and deep minerality on the nose. Juicy with high acidity but a touch closed in on itself. Needs 3-4 years and then will be a great drink. Another wine that should be mentioned is the 2008 St. Julien VV "Domaine de Pergault" which is a Southern Rhone area and NOT from Bordeaux. Eric making Bordeaux is a ridiculous thought anyway. Apparently Eric bought these vineyards from some old religious sect that farmed the land in the strictest most natural way possible for a very long time. So no pesticides, herbicides, etc for 50+ years. So Eric discovered a goldmine there. An untouched vineyard of old vines that hadn't been messed with. The wine provides a great contrast to the Brezeme Pergault as it is bold, chunky, rich and really spreads on your palate with tremendous urgency and then saturates. While not having the top level of finesse, that is not what this cuvee is about, it is about masses of bold fruit all presented in a frame of rustic earth. Great new entry into the Texier portfolio.

Francesco Maule, La Biancara, Veneto

This has shot up to the top of my list as one of my favorite Italian wineries. The father of Francesco, Angiolino Maule, is somewhat of an icon in the natural, biodynamic movement in Italy and his wines are downright thrilling. The quality level across the board is stunning and he may be on my short list of top "natural" wines, and his I Masieri white is what I tell everybody to try if they have not had a natural wine, as that wine is so alive it could hold a conversation with you. The 2008 Veneto Bianco Masieri is an outrageous wine that cannot be described in flavor, only emotional impact and metaphor. So no "formal" note with this wine. A wine that screams out of the glass and into the inner workings of your soul, while also being delicious. Cloudy and packed full of flavor, it is a wine that always mirrors the vintage, and in 2008 is high-acid, lean, but with great fruit and an amazing palate cling on the finish. A wine I can drink fast or very slow and contemplate every sip. A wine that puts a smile on my face every time I have it as there is something comfortable about drinking this wine and knowing it exists. The world is a better place for it. Garganega and Trebbiano if anyone's askin'. The 2009 Veneto Bianco Masieri mirrors 2009, as it had rich fruit, is less austere than the 2008, had a voluptuous texture and a bit of a fruit explosion, but has no less clouds, no less grit and no less soul. The 2008 Veneto Bianco Pico had the most beautiful nose of all the whites. Flowers, cinnamon, hazelnut, some mineral funk, yellow fruits amongst other strange and interesting aromas. A structured palate compared to the I Masieri, and lovely feather-like weight. Brilliantly put together wine. All three of these wines have minimal sulfure additions. The next two reds have no sulfure added and are friggin' amazing natural "varietal" wines. The 2008 Veneto Rosso Masieri is another emotional Maule mind-fuck. I cannot believe Merlot can be this good, this alive, with so much character and this CHEAP. Earthy, loamy, funky, foresty, plummy and perfectly ripe and pure with some hints of hazelnuts. A touch rustic but I would be miffed if it was not. If your CHEAP Merlot is not rustic you have gotten off at the Spoofville stop. Long finish and so varietally correct and alive I could not believe it. Totally profound for what it is. The 2007 Veneto Rosso So San made from the every popular Tocai Rosso grape. Wait? What? Tocai Rosso aka Grenache. Grenache from the Veneto was a new one for me but nothing prepared me for hoe achingly beautiful this wine was. I am not kidding when I say this but Rayas first came to my mind. So silky, so refined, so Burgundian, with wonderful pure fruit with a deep structure. Zero trace of heat which always nags me with Grenache. Great detail, incredibly refined tannins. Beautiful pure seamless wine. Totally profound.