I had a wonderful visit with the charming Christophe Billon last week and his wines continue to be as compelling as ever. The quality of fruit that Christophe gets from his IGP/VDP wines and his Côte-
Roties is some of the best I have ever tasted. There is such power and intensity when they are young and then they turn into something so utterly classically Côte Rotie and pretty you cannot believe what a beast this wine was when it is young.
Today I have two wines of Christophe Billon that I just had to offer as they were some of the highlights of my tasting on my current trip. As I said before the quality of fruit Christophe gets is remarkable. These old steep hillsides are no joke. Combine his fruit quality with how pure the wines are and the wild, animal almost sauvage quality and you have some pretty compelling stuff. And I don't even need to mention how great these are on the value scale.
First up is the 2014 Christophe Billon Corendies VDP for $19.99 per bottle on a 4-pack. Values just make me excited. It is so hard to find a $20 bottle of wine this great. From anywhere. I actually think my $20 and under selections are the best thing going now. Remember these normally would be $30+ and it competes with $40 Northern Rhone wines quality wise. This is a micro cuvee in that he only makes 2,000 bottles or so and that is why I offer it and then it's gone. It's a wine of fruit yet it also offers all the floral, meaty, feral aspects of a mini Côte-Rotie. Fat and rich but with precision and cut that only a master can accomplish. Some interesting smokey meaty flavors as well and a lot of chewiness. You will not believe how much wine this is for the money. The intensity and concentration is that of a $40+ wine. Just a massive amount of vinous goodness with all the blackberry/raspberry fruit one could hope for but also intriguing leather/smoke as well. Dare I say that this is as complex a $20 wine as I've sold. I've said it.
Next up is a wine I bought on the spot as it blew my mind and he only has 60 bottles left. I had to have it. It is the 2012 Christophe Billon Côte-Rotie La Brocarde for $57.99 on a 3-pack. This is limited obviously. What a wine. What I love most about is that it can be drunk today. It's shed is baby fat and is just the sexiest thing. The nose is so complex it just soars out of the glass. So smokey (mesquite?) floral and feral. The fruit is incredibly concentrated it's almost alive in the mouth. It is concentrated and super deep with layers and layers of fruit and earth. It's one of those wines that has the power of a mailed fist but at the same time is balanced and not alcoholic or out of kilter in any way. Imagine great Gevrey or even Romanee St Vivant. It is ready to drink now but can and will age for a long time. It has my favorite type of tannins, the late breaking kind. I did not spit as it was too good.
Everyone loves Jamet, myself included. And comparing Billon and Jamet is like comparing Picasso and Dali. They are both great but very different. Jamet is more about subtle tapenade overtones and Billon is much more powerful. But they are both great wines and in my opinion, on the same qualitative level. For some reason, Billon has not caught on in the states. But that is changing and these wines are going to cost much more.
It is an absolute steal at $58 a bottle and it also has the elusive 5 star review from John Livigstone Learmouth. Here it is below.
"(casks) shiny, dark purple-black robe. The bouquet is wholesome and promising - it serves up a wide, prolonged aroma with plenty of potential. There is a light nut air from its raising, a tickle of mineral and iron. The palate's fullness is attractive, well-shaped, well-sculpted. A proper layer of smooth black fruit runs all the length of the palate, and it finishes completely, too. This goes further than many other 2012s, covers more ground, and is heading for an impressive, scented harmony, beyond its current oak, which shows on the aftertaste above all. Fine fruit, fine acidity; this will be a steady gainer over time, is precise, a wine of finesse. 13°. From 2016. 95% Syr, 5% *****" - JLL
2014 Christophe Billon VDP "Corendies" - $21.99 ($79.96 4-Pack) (Limited)
2012 Christophe Billon Cote-Rotie "La Brocarde" - $59.99
($173.97 3-Pack) (Very Limited)
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