Every year one of the visits I look forward to the most is Phillipe Billard of the classically old school estate of Billard-Gonnet. The wines are some of my favorites in the whole portfolio and are built to age, but some can be drunk young. Depending on the vintage and vineyard they can be enjoyed very young. Today, I have a rare vertical of arguably Billard-Gonnet's best wine, and that is the spectacular Pommard 1er Cru Rugiens Bas. In my opinion, it is the best and most authentic Pommard being made today. But I know that some of you won't believe me, so that is why I use the backup of critics in some emails. Today Allen Meadows confirms what I've always thought, which is that this is the best Pommard Rugiens Bas being made today. In 2011 and 2013 Allen Meadows gives it a 93 and it is the best Rugiens Bas of the vintage. Those are big words and a big statement as there are many terrific examples of Rugiens every year but none, to me and Burghound as riveting as the brilliant version by Billard-Gonnet.
As we know by now (I've put it in almost every Billard-Gonnet offer) Allen Meadows personally cellars these wines and counts them as one of this favorite estates. I've got more Billard-Gonnet in my cellar than any producer going as when I am old and gray I want to drink old Burgundy that is in the class of the fetishized Burgs but not at their pricepoint. I've had older stuff with Phillipe and it us up there with some of the best Burgundies I have ever had. I've got 3 vintages of this venerable wine today. The 2006, 2011 and the 2013. These are all considered "off" vintages but they are all the best examples of Rugiens Bas from their respective vintages. Phillipe blind tasted me on the 92 Rugiens-Bas and it blew my mind and I repeated the Mantra that vintage does not matter when you have a great winemaker in charge. And all of them can be had for $59.99 on a 3-pack. You can mix and match as you wish, with one of each, but the way to go here is to grab 3-packs. Kill one young and cellar the other two. Or cellar the other two and drink the 2006 as you'll see by Burghound notes and my notes. I've included the 2006 as that is drinking great now. I always learn what type of specific wine from a specific older vintage is drinking well now in Burgundy and 06 Volnay/Pommards are in a great place now. 06 was never gong to be a long distance runner but man is it in a pretty place now. We did a killer vertical of Rugiens Bas and the 06 ($59.99 3-pack) was frigging miraculous. Meadows tasted out of barrel but not since. Not quite secondary yet but almost with the hints of mushroom notes peeking through the stoney minerals and dark cherry fruit. The palate is a thrill a minute right now with density, grace and power. Deep rich fruit, a leafiness throughout but also a laciness and finesse on the palate that hints the vice grip of Rugiens Bas is starting to mellow. This is brilliant now and will continue to be brilliant for 10-20 more years. No rush at all but a fine drop today.
I also have two vintages, the 2011 and the 2013 Pommard Rugiens Bas (1er Cru) both for $59.99 on a 3-pack. It's a crime how cheap these wines are. Both of these scored 93 points by Burghound and are both the top Rugiens of their respective vintages. The 2011 Billard Gonnet Pommard 1er Cru Rugiens Bas ($59.99 3-pack) has an insane nose with loads of spice, minerals and berries. Juicy and intense. Texture. Juicy and mineral and great sweetness of fruit which is overwhelmingly black. Power and elegance yet plump and accessible. Stunning. This is one of the best 2011's I've had and if you don't believe me, read below the Burghound note.
"A more elegant and slightly cooler and more restrained nose grudgingly offers up notes of stone, earth, red currant and a whisper of spice that is also reflected by the intensely mineral-inflected, powerful and focused middle weight plus flavors that possess fine verve and excellent length if not quite the same mid-palate concentration. Still, the underlying potential appears to be better and the balance is impeccable and while it's close I believe this will ultimately prove to be the better wine." - 93 BH
The 2013 Billard Gonnet Pommard Rugiens Bas 1er Cru ($59.99 3-pack) is possibly even better. This one is for sure the long distance runner of the group. Massive and intense. Terrific and deeply mineral nose with major black fruits. Just terrific. The essence of Burgundian power. So concentrated and intense. One of the best wines I have ever tasted. Period. It is around 1/3 new oak but one cannot tell. The fruit is terrific. Chewy. The tannins are firm and glorious. About as epic a wine as one can taste. The finish keeps pumping the fruit. He makes 1,500 bottles a vintage of this. Below is the Burghound note.
"This is the ripest wine in the range but also the freshest with a densely fruited nose of red cherry, plum liqueur, pomegranate, spice and discreet floral nuances. There is fine detail and plenty of minerality to the powerful, focused and beautifully balanced finish. This is also very serious and old school in style that will need at least 7 to 8 years of bottle age and should reward 12 to 15, perhaps even more." -93 BH
$62.99($179.97 3-pack) (VERY LIMITED)
2006 Billard-Gonnet Pommard 1er Cru "Rugiens Bas" - $62.99
($179.97 3-pack) (VERY LIMITED)
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