Xavier's first vintage was 2013 as he took control of his family's Domaine. So the 2014's today are his 2nd vintage and to accomplish what he did in his 2nd vintage is remarkable. To make one of the best if not the best Condrieu and a top Côte-Rotie in your second vintage is serious stuff. He has gotten the attention of another famous American importer as well. The father was only a part time vigneron who also worked two days a week at the local branch of the Credit Agricole. The Xavier Gerard wines are marked by a dazzling purity of fruit and an incredible world class finesse to the tannins.
Tannin management is a hard thing to master and the tannins in the 2013 Xavier Gerard Côte-Rotie are world class. This can be had for $56.99 per bottle on a 3-pack. This wine is stunning. So stunning. George opened this bottle for dinner with his wife's brilliantly cooked leg of veal. The meat was so juicy and cooked so perfectly and the Gerard matched so perfectly with it. The wine is a terrific candidate to be drunk young but only because of its deceptively suave tannins in structure. George says this ages with the best of them but it is so great young. Silky, sappy, and oh man those Burgundian style aromas with Côte-Rotie flair are to die for. The palate is a master class in finesse, purity end length. This bottle was killed so quickly as I was in food and wine heaven. It is a blend of the estate's finest parcels and has some of the coveted La Landonne in it and has around 15% whole cluster fermentation, which leads me to believe it will age and develop even more aromatically. Whole cluster wines, even with a little such as this tend to be shy aromatically in their youth but then later open up and have, some would say deeper and more complex aromas than non whole cluster fermented wines. The fruit is gorgeously red with such depth and accessibility. It is so delicate and that is why I keep coming back to the Burgundian aromatics. The fruit is so fresh and crunchy as well which makes me think Burgundy, but it is Syrah as there is smokey pork, bacon, and all that good violet floral stuff you get from terrific Côte-Rotie. A masterful wine and a new voice that is screaming to be heard in Côte-Rotie. John Livingstone Learmouth gave it a vaunted four star review which is below. This will age beautifully for 15+ years but can and should be enjoyed young. Absolutely revelatory wine and one of the mesh surprises of the trip. What was the other surprise? The next wine.
"quite a full red robe. The nose offers nice depth and elegance, an air of black cherries, salt; it has a little sheen of wellbeing. The palate runs with peppery fruit and gives a gradual increase in weight and structure. Berries and smoked, sizzled bacon mingle in the flavour towards the finish, where it takes on a good crunch, aided by 15% inclusion of the stems. The debut is brightly fruited, the finish crunchy, which works well. Natural, unforced Côte-Rôtie. This was 100% Syrah this year, with the Syrah ripening very late, and leaving too much of a time interval between its ripeness and the Viognier's ripeness. 33 hl/ha. Bottled end Aug 2015. From spring 2017.2025-26 ****
Today I have arguably the best Condrieu (2014 Xavier Gerard Condrieu "Cote Chatillon" for $56.99 on a 3-pack) of the vintage. I was already waxing poetic about this Condrieu for the whole trip after I tasted it at dinner and George just emailed me yesterday that he thinks it is best he ever tasted from 2014. And I can tell you he he tasted every important Condrieu from 2014. This wine blew my mind at dinner. Mind you, I am predisposed to 2014 as a vintage for Condrieu as it has utmost finesse and high charged acidity. A perfect "Lyle" vintage. As soon as this wine was poured the aromas soared from the glass. The minerality, precision and depth were remarkable and it kept getting better and better. I looked it up and John Livigstone Learmouth, one of the most esteemed and decorated Rhone critics gave it his vaunted 5 star review. Below is the review as I have a thing for his prose. And his notes are some of the most detailed and accurate and when someone can describe the wine I tasted this vividly and perfectly I let them take it away.
"yellow robe. The nose is rather flamboyant, has airs of brioche and apricot, cooked pear, flan, wee saltiness - it is wide and bountiful. The palate sets off with pace, gives a good delivery of peach and nectarine fruit with dentelle, fresh detail. This is a good collective between gras and drops of freshness. It persists very well, ending on salted, nutty moments. A wine of character and nuance. 2023-24 Oct 2015 ****(*)"
There is not much else I can add to that tasting note to the 2014 Xavier Gerard Condrieu "Côte Chatillon" which is one of the top vineyards in Condrieu. His slice is right in the middle of the slope and I think it is up there with Vernay and Perret. Magnificent wine and of the few Condrieu's that will age.
2013 Xavier Gerard Cote-Rotie - $59.99 ($170.97 3-pack)
2014 Xavier Gerard Condrieu Cote Chatillon - $59.99 ($170.97 3-pack)
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