I never know what to write when I sit down to write an email on the wines of Gilles Berlioz. Like Müllen, Weltner and some others they have an almost devout cult-like following. There's a reason. Erase those nightmares of flat, innocuous Apremont drank on cold nights in expensive ski chalets and enter the brilliant expressions of Savoie made by Gilles Berlioz at the Domaine de Partage (he changed the name in 2015), which will open your mind and expand your palate to the delights that this nestled little village (Chignin) in the mountains of the Savoie can create. The place is heaven on earth and some areas are lost in time. On the way to Chignin there is a toll booth area that is entirely made out of wood from the local forests that are also used to make the expensive and exclusive ski chalets. They are also manned by people. Yes, there are people in the tollbooths. If you don't believe me I implore you to go.
If Gilles has a speciality it is Chignin-Bergeron which is the Roussanne appellation in Chignin. Many of you may be like, what? Roussanne? Yes. After phylloxera destroyed many of the vineyards at the turn of the century Gilles told me they planted Roussanne because it was around and resistant. As a wine lover I am very glad that this decision was made as the Roussanne that comes from these mountainous and steep vineyards is a vinous elixir like nothing else in the world of wine. I am offering today a wine that is incredibly special and blew my socks off when tasting out of vat. I've never offered it before and it has rarely been offered in the states.
It is the 2015 Gilles Berlioz "Domaine de Partage" Chignin-Bergeron "Les Filles" for $37.99 on a 3-pack. Compare that for the 2012 at $53, which is a far inferior vintage than the great 15's which truly have it all. Fruit, dry extract, terrific acidity, well-defined structures and incredible soil imprint. I offered Mon Ami last year which is like the entry level version. Then there are two cuvees next and the Les Filles is the one that is the superstar in 2015. I mean a superstar. There is so much demand in France for these that they sell out as soon as they are bottled. Which is always at the beginning of the summer according to the lunar calendar. How do I go about describing this wine? I'll try. The nose is alpine clean but also rich, deep and complex. Elegant and haunting as well as it is so layered and nuanced. Goosebump inducing. The palate has rich fruit but more in a dry extract type of way than a rich way, top notch finesse and incredible delineation of flavors I bet due to the elevated acidity. A melange of vivid apricot honey and hazelnut on a bed of clay/limestone only begins to describe it. The concentration is Norwegian God level. But it remains so graceful. This is a great wine and I cannot believe that is only $38. This is a better wine in quality than '14 Beaucastel Roussanne VV is $120-$175 and obviously a much better value. This wine is maybe the freshest Roussanne I've ever had with dynamic freshness and acidity that is just so compelling. The length is crazy and the finish just keeps going. It is so complex and always changing. One glass was not enough and I had to retaste 2 or 3 times to believe how good it was an check if I was not bugging. I was not bugging. The wine is that great.
No wonder as Gilles and his wife Christine treat their vineyards with immense respect. Biodynamic and organic since 2005/2006 and in the winery they do minimal intervention with low sulfur. These wines are made with a care, dedication and love rarely seen. They are always working and always in the vineyards. We walked the vineyards for an hour. One thing I noticed this time is the natural wind that is ever present. Not Mistral but it is very windy. Now if you are thinking about the great whites of St. Joseph, CDP or Hermitage one needs to recalibrate one's palate as these wines have a dynamism and natural acidity that is unique to Chignin-Bergeron. Maybe what is why I am somewhat obsessed with them.
2015 Gilles Berlioz Chignin-Bergeron "Les Filles" - $39.99
($113.97 3-pack) (VERY LIMITED)
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