Single Vineyard St. Aubin, A Burghound Favorite Producer, from 2014 a Burghound and Fass Favorite (Limited

So the Burghound has spoken and really breaks down what is so special about 2014 WhiteBurgs. His

latest issue came out and he, as usual, he just nails it. This will be one of the few e-mails where I won't have as much to say as normal, because Burghound, who besides having a spot on palate, is also quite an eloquent writer. Below let's unpack one of his first quotes. But first here is the wine if one does not want to read all of the e-mail.

2014 Marc Colin St. Aubin "La Fontenotte" which can be had for $35.99 a bottle on a 4-pack.

Before I turn it over to the master (Burghound), briefly, I've always loved St. Aubin as an AOC very close in quality to the Puligny and Chassagne Montrachet villages and Meursault at a fraction of the price.  The price gap has closed but it's still a relative bargain.  I've also always loved Marc Colin and 2014 is a vintage of the decade type vintage.  In short, this is a crazy value for a fantastic wine that I absolutely love in an amazing vintage.  Now, on to Burghound:

"So, as with every vintage, the two questions that take precedence over everything else always are: Should I buy the wines and if so, how much of them? The answer to those questions are yes, you should buy the 2014s and secondly, while personal preferences and circumstances always dictate the quantities purchased, I would suggest not only buying but buying aggressively." 

Personally I've been trying to offer as many as I can through Fass Selections as it is not even funny how remarkable this vintage is. They will drink well young and age very well. At the lower levels, they are truly incredible and that is where the value is. Also I've never seen him this enthusiastic.

"I make this recommendation for several reasons: the first is that 2014 is an excellent vintage, if not a genuinely great one, and importantly it's excellent from top to bottom."

That is what makes a great vintage. Consistently if you think about it, every great vintage from the beginning of time has had great quality across the board. From the most humble of origin Bourgogne Blanc to the grandest Grand Cru Montrachet and all in between. There is nothing that riles up a wine lover more than a great vintage.

"As to the style of the 2014s, they are classic middle weight white burgs that possess excellent freshness, solid but not high alcohols and acidities along with terrific transparency to the underlying terroir. They are also exceptionally refreshing and energetic which just makes them fun to drink as one sip invites the next." 

What I want to focus on here is the last part. That is the energy of the wines. Combined with the refreshing quality, which to get more specific, makes you salivate with a delicious array of flavors, that when that wine induced saliva starts to dissipate, you have to have another sip. It's like a wine version of cocaine.

"Outside of the "big three", St. Aubin once again turned in a very fine performance and many producers made strikingly good 2014s that are available for generally very reasonable prices. Among those that you might consider, and I list these in no particular order, include domaines Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Olivier Lamy, Henri Prudhon, Marc Colin, Sylvain Langoureau and Jean-Claude Bachelet. "

Just as the Burghound honed in on the HCDN wines for his value red pick of 2014, he has also honed in on St. Aubin and also on today's producer, who is Marc Colin, with his 2014 Marc Colin St. Aubin "La Fontenotte" which can be had for $35.99 a bottle on a 4-pack (compare the '13 at $40-$43).  Before there was PYCM there was Marc Colin, from the small village of Gamay who was the reference point for St. Aubin. I can spit on his estate from the front of our grower, JJ Morel. He is the old standard in St. Aubin and has been making terrific St. Aubin for years. I love the style here. No pomp and circumstance, just pure, unadulterated, dripping with terroir, honest wines. He is so consistent he is almost forgotten about, but this address is where I cut my teeth on St. Aubin.  The wines are scintillating. They have a fresh mineral water quality with just terrific finesse and freshness that is brilliant.

This 2014 St. Aubin La Fontenotte has a super aromatic rock quarry style nose, with hints of green apple, seashells, almost hinting at Chablis/Champagne minerality. It is ridiculously inviting aromatically, one of those wines that you smell for 5 minutes before you take a sip. It has that special quality that makes 2014 unlike any other vintage since maybe '10 or '07, which is what I, and am sure, many of you,  live for in White Burgundy. There is layered mineral complexity on the nose that belies its village appellation. The acid is perfect. Not too high and screechy but what I like to call noticeable. It has a complex and deep finish and the fruit is all peach and sweet white grapefruit. It is so pure and refreshing that one is almost reminded of Chablis because of all the different mineral nuances. St. Aubin can get its mineral on and hold its own with the big 3 (Chassagne/Puligny/Meursault) and if you need any evidence, this wine is it.  For the point people the Wine Advocate gave it a 90. Neal Martin also thinks very highly of Marc Colin.

Here is what Neal Martin of the Wine Advocate says about Marc Colin.

"Okay, I'm going to say it. Shoot me if I'm wrong. Domaine Marc Colin are currently making some of the greatest whites in Burgundy." - Neal Martin

2014 Marc Colin St. Aubin "La Fontenotte" - $37.99
($143.96 4-pack) (LIMITED)