Everyone knows that the French make some of the greatest wines in the world. Names like Batard-Montrachet, Vosne-Romanee and Gevrey Chambertin are known world over.
But some think that because these wines are famous and expensive that French wine gravitates towards being expensive. While there are certainly hundreds of French wines that are over say $50 per bottle, not all French are wealthy and they almost all drink wine. The French winemaking industry is very well structured to make less expensive wines that represent incredible value.
For those of us who are not millionaires (or for millionaires who focus on value), below I present my top 10 list for value for the money in France in no particular order.
- Savigny les Beaune - There's a saying one of my good friends says and that is you do not love Burgundy unless you love Savigny-Les-Beaune. She's got a point. It is the ultimate value region in Burgundy. So many 1er Crus, village wines and interesting whites, and usually all can be had for under $40, less Leroy and Bruno Clair Dominode and some Simone Bize bottlings. They age, they give you a window into Burgundy and the appellation system, you can drink village wines and 1er Crus and study the differences and all without breaking the bank. This is the OG value play. And I agree, if you don't love Savigny and only drink Vosne/Chambolle/Gevrey you don't love Burgundy. Look for JJ Girard, Vincent Ledy, Camus-Bruchon and Chandon de Brialles.
- Beaujolais - Name me one region where you can put together a case of the top of heap wines, for an average price of $35 a bottle. You can't. That's why Beaujolais is so great. Gamay's reputation has been equally helped and hurt by Duboeuf and Nouveau phenomenon so that has kept prices down and the ridiculous idea that Gamay is somehow inferior to other grapes. I'm all for it as it has suppressed the prices just like German Riesling. From compelling Beaujolais-Villages to rare super premium cuvees there is something for everyone and every bottle is a value. Except maybe Dejourneys. Look for Chateau Thivin single vineyards, Clos du Mez, Julien Sunier and Jean Foillard amongst others.
- Crozes-Hermitage - 20 years ago Crozes-Hermitage would not have been on this list. Maybe not even 10 years ago. But there is a revolution going on over there the last 5-10 years and it has resulted in exceptional wines from an array of producers. Darnaud, Alexandrins, Habrard and Remy Nodin to name a few are making high quality Crozes for not much scratch. You can find a huge amount for under $30 if you know where to look. There are some high end cuvees as well, that provide great value if you're not a label whore. Darnaud makes "Au Fil du Temps" and, of course, Graillot's La Guiraude make up the top two deluxe cuvees.
- Savoie - Okay Savoie is a region like Burgundy or The Loire, but it has many amazing QPR AOC's like Chignin, Chignin-Bergeron, Ayse and Rousette de Savoie amongst others. The best whites will run you under $60 and most of the wines are $20-$40. With Jacquere, Roussanne, Mondeuse, Gringet (only by Belluard) and Gamay there are plenty of choices. There is nothing like Savoie wines. They have an Alpine quality about them which is unique to the Savoie. Generally they all have a clean alpine mountain air mineral thing about them and most, if not all, have very low alcohols. The freshness is compelling. 11.5% ABV is typical here. Top producers include Gilles Berlioz and Domaine Belluard.
- Pernand-Vergelesses - In the same vein as Savigny except that it makes white and red equally as compelling with multiple 1er Cru’s in each color. These sometimes can scale such heights as to be called baby Corton and Corton Charlemagne. There are a number of stunning wines that can be had for under $40 with the sweet spot being $35. From my producer JJ Girard to Chandon de Brialles to Rapet there are tons of exciting choices and much value to be had. From village all the way to the top 1er Cru of “Les Vergelesses” not much in Burgundy can compete with Pernand for breadth and value.
- Chinon - Maybe the most classic expression of Cabernet Franc in the word. And most of them run under $50 and many under $30. The top Chinon is Baudry La Croix Boissee which used to be around $35 but I'm sure it has gone up since I opened Fass Selections. Old Joguet (pre '95) can be reference point and is akin to drinking Gentaz Cote Rotie. Joguet will never be as good as it was. It can be good but they are not making things like 88-89 Chene Vert or Clos des Dioterie ever again. But with a range of styles (Alliet/Baudry - Lenoir/Raffault) and all being fairly priced, this has to be best value red wine appellation in all of Loire.
- Minervois/St. Chinian - I don't sell either of these and it is not because I don't want to. I do. I do very much so, but most people could care less. Top examples of both can be had for $30-$50, often much less, and there is a character, especially to the Syrah and Syrah heavy blends that I find delicious. It's an intense stony minerality. More in St. Chinian than Minervois, for me, when it is on, can compete with Cote-Rotie or someone like Domaine Richaud for stunning wines and terrific value. Look for Canet-Valette in St. Chinian. They are an unreal producer. In Minervois I love Clos Centeilles, d'Oupia and Coupe-Roses. Minervois under $30 and even $20 is a trove of value.
- Bandol - I believe Bandol is cheap because it needs time and that is something most people don't have much of anymore. Because Bandol needs 20-30 years to come into its own. Although Pibarnon can show well younger, Pradeaux needs 20 minimum and probably much longer. So they are inexpensive. But when aged they are like a cross between Bordeaux and aged Barolo and are one of the great red wines of the world. Most top Bandol can be had for under $50 and there are a number of estates like Gros Nore and Terrebrune that can be enjoyed on the early side without sacrificing Bandol character.
- Irancy - 20 years ago, nary an American had even heard of Irancy, but with an increase in global temperatures and an increase in wine people looking for the next big thing, Irancy has arrived. It's a rustic, tannic, but utterly charming interpretation of Pinot Noir that ages very well and many wines by the top producers not only need but demand a few years of age in the bottle. There are a number of producers making terrific wines including Thierry Richoux and Benoit Cantin.
- Chablis - Chablis will never catch up to the Cote de Beaune when it comes to pricing. At least one can hope. It's like France's Mosel, in that it is easily the best value play for whites in France but for some reason it gets begrudging respect from the market, like the Mosel, which keeps its prices down. Chablis is a mineral lover's dream and is the ultimate expression of Kimmeridgian terroir. With most 1er cru's under $50 and many under $40, except a vaunted few producers, and with AC wines sometimes under $20, there is always value to be found and with the cheapest Grand Cru wines in Burgundy there is a a lot to like here. Such a great value play and tremendous versatility.
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