Wednesday, June 15, 2016

Traditionally Made, Five Year Aged Cult Châteauneuf-du-Pape from the Greek - My Favorite CDP, 85 Year Old Vines... Plus a 2015 Rose

This is another wine from the King of the Rhone, aka the Greek who runs the top wine store in the for $39.99 on a 4-pack. When it comes to release schedule Domaine St. Gayan marches to the beat of their own drummer; while people are scooping up the 14's and pre-ordering the 15's, they have just released their 2011.  If you have the 2010 please open it.  This is old school, classic, "we are releasing this when it is ready to drink" authentic as Chateauneuf gets. The nose has so much grainy red fruit along with uplifting minerals and floral hints, that it is the essence of CDP. Cool minerals finish with licorice and some anise adding complexity to the youthful vigor. So utterly classic with explosive and freshly defined red berry fruit. But there is major structure here and big tannins which to me indicate 8-12 year drinking window. Internally we call it "The Beast" as Chateauneuf has a wild, feral, rustic element to it and with St. Gayan being old school it's just a beast. But a beautiful beast in that it has really wonderful finesse. The 2011 is just a gorgeous wine. Very expressive nose of all types of wild herbs and cherry liqueur. This is all on just so many stones. You really can smell the galets in this wine. It's great. It's so authentic the aromas of this in that it it is not afraid to show its rustic side. I think that is why I love this wine so much. Also, and this is the key, Gayan CDP is a serious wine and with none of the classical elements of tobacco / coffee / oak that we often find in "old school" CDP. Everything that is a great CDP is there and not masked by alcohol or too much oak.
Rhone, is highly respected by all of the top winemakers and who has been the first winemaker to sell pretty much every top Rhone wine.  Today, is one of his favorites, 2011 Domaine St. Gayan Chateauneuf-du-Pape which can be had today

That is why it is my favorite CDP.

It is 90% Grenache from vines planted in 1946 and 10% Mourvèdre/Syrah/Clairette and has It is aged in old casks and used wood barrels.  

A close friend in the wine business whose palate I respect very much went to the InterRhone tasting and that's where everyone shows their wines. He said Janasse, Pegau showed their wines and many other great and famous estates did as well but for him Domaine St. Gayan soared above the rest. It was not even close. Some of you have received the cult Gigondas they make as well, the In Nominae Patris, that was only sold through me (you can get the normal Gigondas cuvee in the US) and have been thrilled with it. It is an amazing wine. Saint Gayan is so overlooked.

St. Gayan is an estate that makes wines almost like they do in "ancient times" in that these are the boiled down essences of their respective appellations. And also in that they are not from vineyards that are terraced by man but from places where vines grow naturally and have their own unique and special microclimates. Plus Saint Gayan has ancient vines. The CDP is from vines averaging 85 years old. The In Nominae Patris is 100+ years. Old vines are often touted but not often explained why? Gonon is terrific because of the ancient Syrah vines that they have that separates their wines from many others in the appellation. It's the same at Saint Gayan. The 2011 CDP has that same old vine intensity. That extra dimension that only old vines can bring. Also with Gonon and Gayan and to an extent Chave as well, these are all the same formula. Unassuming low key people, old vines, working hard and shedding blood, sweat and tears into their final product. When I taste Gayan over in France and discuss it it is held in extremely high esteem. But yet it remains a relative value and unheard of in the USA. As far as I know only the Gigondas and maybe a specific Cotes du Rhone Villages is sold here. But, again, another case where the two best wines of an estate, in this case the CDP, are just not available in America for some unknown reason. But as I do here at Fass Selections, I capitalize in the inefficiencies and holes in the market. Also they only make 3,000 bottles or so and everything stays in France as this wine has a following over there.

And finally if you have made it this far I've got a little treat. I want to get as much 2015 Rhone over here as I can, and I remembered how nice this 2015 Domaine St. Gayan Rose "Lea" was. It can be had for $18.99 on a 4-pack and because I never sell Rose, I'm offering a special case price of $16.99 a bottle. This is the perfect summer wine (you'll be receiving in Fall) but it will age and improve for 2-3 years. 2015 has that depth and aging Rose is not gauche anymore. It's the ultimate BBQ rose. I think it can stand up to ribs. Seriously, this has body, freshness, elegance on a nice structural frame. Love the acidity. Authentic rose from a great vintage. It is just utterly charming. I could not get it off my mind. It's Grenache with some Carignan and it is sourced from the CDRV appellation from vines that are 10-15 years old and 35+ years old.

2011 Domaine Saint Gayan Chateauneuf-du-Pape - $42.99 
($159.96 4-pack) 

2015 Domaine Saint Gayan Cotes-du-Rhone Rose "Lea" - $19.99 ($75.96 4-pack, $203.88 12 bottle case) 

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