Friday, July 8, 2016

One of the Greatest Winemakers in the Northern Rhone - Gripa - His Affordable Regular St. Jo. and His Super-Rare Magnum Opus

Every time I taste a bottle of one of the brilliant wines of Bernard & Fabrice Gripa I am utterly blown away by two things. First off the quality is second to none. I've had enough Gonon and Gripa to confidently say that he really is the best St. Joseph along with Gonon albeit in a completely different style than Gonon. Gonon, seems to me, more red fruited,more feminine and will age a bit less than Gripa. Gripa, on the other hand is more black fruited,  more mas
culine, sauvage and dark. The wines need time to unwind when young but after some heavy decants they are a thrill a minute drinking with roasted or grilled meats. Northern Rhone Syrah has eclipsed just about anything for meat since I've opened this company. The second thing I am blown away is how he gets almost zero recognition in the USA. If Gonon is Roumier, Gripa is Rousseau. Both essential producers yet so different but any hardcore or true Burgundy fanatic cellars and collects them both. It's not even a question. I think that's the same way it should be done with St. Joseph. But it is not.

Having said that today I am thrilled, honored and just plain giddy to offer the two brilliant Red St. Joseph offerings of Bernard and Fabrice Gripa from the 2014 vintage.

First up is the 2014 Bernard Gripa St. Joseph for as little as $35.99 a bottle on a 4-pack which is a terrific value. This would be closer to $50-$55 (Gonon prices) via the 3-tiered system. Great nose. Meaty, peppery, dark almost black fruits. So clean. Super gravelly as well. Palate is firm and structured as young Gripa should be. This has stunning flavor hierarchy and delineation all with mind boggling freshness. Needs a few hours to come together but it is all there. Beautiful noble tannins and structured like an old school Bordeaux. Really one of the top wines in the appellation. As impressive a "regular" St. Joseph as I've had. 2014 for reds, in my estimation is very similar to 2013. Firm wines with terrific spines and freshness with the ability to age but also be accessible young. The vintage accurately represents the sense of place. The wine is from Syrah vines averaging 30 years of age and has been 100% destemmed since the 2006 vintage. John Livingston Learmouth calls the 2013 a "w.o.w." wine which means what one wants.

Up next is the big boy and arguably one of one of the top wines of the appellation and all of the North. The 2014 Bernard Gripa St. Joseph "Le Berceau" for as little as $59.99 on a 3-pack. This wine is rarely if ever available in America so there is no comparable pricing. It's like his version of Gonon's VV qualitatively. It is just a brilliant "Hammer of God" type wine. It is from a specific site in St. Joseph where the core of the vines are 96+ years old and the average age is 60+ years old. It's a dark color. Almost black. Stunning nose of crushed granite, fresh underbrush, black fruits, minerals galore, leather and so much more. Damp earth, licorice, violet, bacon fat. So much aroma. Nuanced and complex as great St. Joseph can be. The palate is deep with big black fruits, significant ripe and sweet tannin and a long, juicy and explosive finish. There is absolutely the remarkable freshness for a wine that is so old viney, dense and big that it has finesse.

It is 30-40% whole cluster fermentation and 60-70% destemmed. It's aged in 1-6 year old 228 L oak casks for 11 months and which 20% are new. It doesn't matter what vintage of this wine one opens there is a level of quality that is just assumed and Gripa never lets me down. Just incredible. This is obviously young but has all the parts to be one of the best wines of the vintage as the finish lingers for a long time which hints at a very long life ahead of it.

2014 Bernard & Fabrice Gripa St. Joseph - $37.99 ($143.96 4-pack) 

2014 Bernard & Fabrice Gripa St. Joseph "Le Berceau" - $63.99 
($179.97 3-pack) 

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