I’ve been banging the drum for Northern Rhone whites for some time now. Why? Because the great producers are incredible values. The region has always had great terroir with powerful, complex wines. The issue was that the wines were too opulent for many palates when young.
It was only when they matured and developed secondary flavors that many were really worth drinking.
Now, there are a new generation of New Northern Rhone Whites that have the acidity and balance to drink well young and old. The wines, since I have been visiting the region every year, seem to have picked up more vibrancy and freshness. This makes them really fun to drink young. I drink a good amount of White Northern Rhone now and am the better for it.
1. Marc Sorrel Hermitage Blanc "Les Rocoules" - For me, this is even better than Chave Hermitage and will last as long. Complex, rich, elegant and amazingly light on its feet for a wine with so much power. Opulent but not overbearing and finish that never ends. Truly one of the great white wines of the world. Singular and ageworthy. 30 years in a top vintage but I would drink the '11 and '06 tonight. Gladly.
2. Chave Hermitage Blanc - Considered to be the top Rhone white and it really can be a transcendental wine. '85, '98, '90 and '88 are legendary wines. It can be drunk young but really should be aged. Once aged it has majestic secondary and tertiary flavors that are unrivaled in the white wine world. I prefer it with age on it while I can drink Sorrel young.
3. Bernard Gripa St. Joseph Blanc "Le Berceau" - This, for the money, $55-$65, is the best value on this list for an epic White Rhone that can age 20+ years but can be enjoyed young. Gripa, who is literally across the street from Chave in the sleepy village of Mauves, makes this small production exciting wine that does rival Gonon for top white in the appellation. It is vibrant, deep and has hidden secrets only revealed with age. It has, always excellent acidity, vibrant minerality and really pure and luscious fruit. It is layered and shows great complexity with age. A '98 last year was right there but had around 5 more years ahead of it.
4. Georges Vernay Condrieu "Coteaux de Vernon" - There are only two Condrieus on this list and they have a RC/La Tache kind of relationship qualitatively, in that this Vernay is the RC and the Perret, later on down the list, is the La Tache. Coteaux de Vernon is the undisputed champ and comes from steep vineyards that yield Viognier that can age and improve for 15-18 years. That is highly unusual in an area where most Condrieu should be drunk within 5 years for its youthful charms. Old Coteaux de Vernon is awash in complexity and texture and is a treat for anyone who has the patience. The '98, '99 and '01 are great now while I think '13 and '14 could eclipse those down the road.
5. Compagnie de L'Hermitage Hermitage Blanc "Les Rocoules" - Another Rocoules on this list as that is perhaps the greatest vineyard for White Hermitage on the whole hill. From the brain of George Lelektsoglou, the famous King of the Rhone, who knows anybody and everybody and sees over every detail of the vineyard management and cellar decisions. And of course the sources are top secret but it is only the best. The wine is extraordinary. Opulent and ripe, and rich, yet fresh. Deep, layered and unbelievably complex. Massive structure and juicy fruit. It is super impressive with loads of dry extract and palate staining depth.
6. Gonon St. Joseph Blanc - If you can find it, this is "the pretzels"as they say. Rare as hen's dentures this wine is divine and has the balance, freshness and depth of Grand Cru White Burgundy but also the delicacy that makes Gonon so special. Always one of the most ageable whites in the North this is a must try and by all means, do what you can to get a bottle. This and the Berceau from Gripa are far and away the two top St. Joseph Blanc.
7. Andre Perret Condrieu Coteaux de Chery - Another wonderful, ageworthy expression of Condrieu from a very special and very steep site. Amazingly rich and opulent but fresh and cutting with a distinct mineral freshness that makes this site so exciting. This and Vernay are the only two Condrieu at this elite level. Worth your attention and also worth putting some bottles in the cellar.
8. Domaine de la Côte St. Epine St. Joseph Blanc Vieilles Vignes - What a value. From old Trollat vines, this wine has incredible energy, precision and vigor that enable it to be enjoyed young. Always with the mouthwatering acidity and such depth, minerality and classic White Rhone tropical fruit makes this a dumb value at the $23 or $24 is goes for. It truly takes over your mouth with each sip. It won't age as long as some on this list but you need something to drink while others age.
9. Luyton Hermitage Blanc - The rare affordable Hermitage Blanc that can be aged, drunk and enjoyed young and aged into profundity. Have had ‘11, ‘12, ‘13 and ‘14 and all have a profound freshness to them and higher than normal acidity. Wonderful elegant texture and terrific complexity after significant aeration. I have no doubt these will go 20 years. Michelle makes a red as well, but i reckon the white is the star of the show here.
10. Bernard Gripa St. Peray "Les Figuieres" - I love this wine and it might be my favorite St. Peray. This is one of the best wines of the appellation easily and is an incredibly high quality wine. Fabrice, in February 2015 opened up a 2000 for me and it was eye opening. It was beautiful with a silken texture, exotic flavors and wonderful interesting minerality and enough acidity to keep it together. The level of earthiness and minerality was so distinctive and unlike anything I have ever tasted. It also still has enough structure that it could age and improve for many years. All I was thinking of how it would be so delicious, even more delicious with 5 more years of age. Yes, you heard me right, more age. With the right food this could be a heavenly combo. It is amazing to me how it aged so well from a vintage that is good but not great. I have gone long on ‘14 as a result. A truly great wine and one of the most underrated wines of the region.
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