Tuesday, August 2, 2016

Top 10 Loire White Producers According to Me

The Loire Valley is a large and complex wine region with many styles and many great producers but also a higher proportion of bad producers than any other French wine region. Bordeaux and Languedoc are the same. Lots of good wine and lots of bad wine. Well through this list, I hope I can help. These top 10 lists are 100% what I would drink, as what I would drink is a good gauge as I am super serious about it and quality is everything to me. Over trends, over price, over anything. Quality is everything. Without further ado here is the list. In no preferential order.

  1. Luneau-Papin - Many can and will put Pepiere here (and with good reason) but I find the Luneau-Papin Muscadets to be the more interesting and higher quality of the two stalwarts of Nantes. There is a more of a savory character that I prefer and in general I think it is more interesting as Pepiere and as delicious. You can safely buy all the cuvees but I have a soft spot for the extended lees aging ones and the Gros Plant.
  2. Domaine des Roches Neuves - The genius that is Thierry Germain runs this estate that has shot to the front of high end Chenin production in Saumur. The wines are Chenin in a Riesling style in that Thierry looks at Riesling as his inspiration. The stars of the show here are the two high end micro cuvees, the Clos Romans and the Clos l'Echelier which are both from the same 11th century enclosed Clos that has very special old vines and terroir. For me Chenin does not get better in the Loire and at this address right now. Purity, freshness, depth, length and they get better open 3-4-5 days. Just stunning wines.
  3. Pascal Cotat/Francois Cotat - These are some of the most sublime Sancerres (really, Chavignol as they have nothing to do with normal Sancerre) in the Loire Valley and really the whole world. I clump Pascal and Francois together as they both are brilliant and both basically make the same wines plus some special cuvees. But these wines have it all. Distinct character, ageability, depth, freshness, purity and an uncanny ability to just drink higher than they are worth every time. I go for Les Monts Damnes or Grand Cote depending on my mood.
  4. Domaine Huet - What list of top 10 Loire white producers would be complete without Huet. With a dizzying array of dry, off dry and sweet Vouvrays that age as well as any great white in the world what is not to like? As consistent as it gets and a stalwart of the Loire Valley.
  5. Domaine de Clos de L'Ecotard - As an assistant winemaker to Thierry Germain of the Domaine des Roches Neuves, Michel Chevre's training is as good as it gets. Saumur Blancs to rock the soul. Deep, ageworthy and made in a hands off style from old and really old vines as he has acquired a new old vine parcel. The first vintage of this super cuvee called "Les Pentes des Clos de l'Ecotard" is 2015 and it's as brilliant a debut as I've ever tasted.
  6. Domaine de la Belliviere - Maybe the most esoteric selection on the list but the intense and lively Chenin Blancs made from the Coteaux de Loir and Jasnieres appellations are thrilling, unique and ageworthy examples of Chenin. They have a different voice and character than Vouvray and Montlouis to the South. More dramatic and baroque. Run and get the Calligrame (Jasnieres) and VV Eparses (Coteaux de Loire).
  7. Francois Chidaine - The master of Montlouis of course is worthy of this list. A man who single handedly made this appellation a household name amongst wine geeks and Loire lovers. Crisp, precise and deep. Very pure, complex and aromatic Chenin. Many different vineyard sites but I love the Clos du Breuil Sec.
  8. Richard Leroy - But with just two Anjou Blanc cuvees, he has made a name for himself by producing exquisite, Baroque Chenin yet with racy character as well. Another one whose wine model is German Riesling. Hard to find, pricey, but oh so great.
  9. Domaine Guiberteau - Absolutely storming into the scene 7-9 years ago and staying near or at the top ever since, these are serious Chenin for white burgundy drinkers as I like to say. They have that white Burgundy structure going for them that separates them from the pack. Dense wines with Breze and Clos des Carmes being the stars here. Very ageable. A '10 recently was barely budging after a day.
  10. Robert Denis - For me a sentimental favorite. He is dead and these wines haven't been made in a while. But there were 89's, 95's and 96's around if you know the right people. I did and drank through a case of these with friends when they came into my life around 2007-2008. Huge sulfur ensures a long life, so sure to be alive and kicking if you find one over the next 20 years. He worked from the overlooked Azay-Le-Rideau appellation in Touraine and his '96 Demi Sec and '89 Sec are as good as it gets in Chenin and White Loire.

1 comment:

  1. Great list, nice the see Belliviere Jasnieres get some props. For some reason, Guiberteau doesn't do it for me. Mike Farrell

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