Why Do We Drink So Much Chardonnay?Because It Was Always Good
Savoie Comes Out of the Cold
Master Po: Close your eyes. What do you hear?
Young Caine: I hear the water, I hear the birds.
Po: Do you hear your own heartbeat?
Caine: No.
Po: Do you hear the grasshopper which is at your feet?
Caine: Old man, how is it that you hear these things?
Po: Young man, how is it that you do not?
When I think of the new regions I am trying to introduce, I always think of the Kung Fu tv show from the 70s. A Shaolin priest (played by David Carradine) is wandering the West and we are treated to flashbacks of his training at a Shaolin temple (the above quote is perhaps the most famous of these). Don't get me wrong, I love selling Chardonnay. But I really get most pleasure from selling wines that are new to my customers, just as good (if not better for the price) and very different.
The Savoie is in the mountains and much colder than most other winemaking regions in France. It was traditionally fairly thin and acidic. But with global warming, the wines have gained heft and fruit to go with their distinctive aromatics. They are unlike any wines in the world and the hardcore wine geeks on the list are going crazy for them. These wines deserve to rest proudly in each and every one of your cellars next to those from the masters in Burgundy, Germany, Loire and the Northern Rhone.
While all the hype may be for the Northern Rhone and Germany for the great 2015 vintage in Europe but there are also so many other regions who had great to stupendous to once in lifetime vintages. One of those regions is the Savoie and one of those producers is the only Savoie producer I carry and that is the brilliant Gilles Berlioz of the Domaine de Partage in Chignin. Jon Bonne, formerly of the SF Chronicle (like a west coast version of Eric Asimov), has just written an article for Punch about Savoie and gives a small primer on the six essential producers where of course Berlioz is there. I've tasted 2013, 2014 and 2015 at Berlioz since I started working with him and have only sold the 14s and 15s. I have gotten countless emails about the 14s and how great they are, and they are great, but the 15s are a whole new ballgame. The next level. 14 is about elegance and freshness. 15 is about insane gorgeously ripe levels of fruit backed up by awesome cleansing acidity. Tasting the 14s out of bottle and the 15s out of barrel illustrated the huge difference between vintages. There is a zen like harmony in 2015. There is more of everything yet the wines have perfect balance. I mean perfect balance. So pure and so dynamic. The aromas are so vivid. So pure. The terroir footprint is insanely remarkable. The length is just startling. When you think they end, they are just beginning. Today I have two wines that are very special to me.
Up first is the Gilles Berlioz (Domaine de Partage) Chignin-Bergeron "Mon Ami" for as little as $34.99 on a 4-pack. The wine is 100% Roussanne. The wine is insane. The super complex nose really jumps out at you. All types of craziness going on. Yellow fruits. Flowers. Intensely mineral. Then the palate with its exquisite texture, explosive fruit, amazing focus, and utmost finesse will seduce anyone. The mineral fruit interplay is just amazing. The fruit complexity on all of his Roussanes are what stands out the most to me and makes them so unique. Apricot, persimmon, peach, tangerine. All in a sea of minerals and acid. They layering here is something else. The cleanliness and freshness are unreal. It is from 32 year old vines and an introduction into Gilles' mastery of Roussanne. I absolutely adore Chignin-Bergeron and this tiny pocket of Alpine mountain goodness makes some of the most compelling Roussanne in the world. I'm a weirdo but I'd rather drink Roussanne from here rather than the Rhone. Much more of a Marsanne-Rhone fan. The Roussanne from Chignin-Bergeron is very special. The cooler climate really help the grape express itself and retain acidity.
Next up we have, what I refer to as "the runt of the litter." The 2015 Gilles Berlioz (Domaine de Partage) Rousette de Savoie which can be had for as little as $37.99 a bottle on a 4-pack is one of my favorite wines that Gilles made in 2015. I love Altesse and until the 15 came around the '14 was my benchmark Altesse. This 15 is the greatest damn Altesse I have ever had. Altesse is a local grape that, in the right hands, can be as profound and similar to the greatest dry Chenins. It is just as fussy as Chenin but all of that is ok when it produces brilliant wines like this 15 from Berlioz. It is mineral and deep like great Altesse should be. It has a huge nose of yellowed fruits. Almost honeyed. Deep and very expressive aromas. A wine you can smell and smell. It has that alpine, dried mountain herb and bergamot thing going so much. The unique aromas of Altesse really encompass the natural beauty and aromas of the area. This is more than a regional wine, it truly is an expression of a unique place. Spectacular. Fat and concentrated with lovely acidity around the edges of the round flavors. So long, so mineral. Also has the startling purity that Gilles is known for. I had a terrific bottle of the '14 in late March and here are my notes.
Recommendation: Decant for 3 hours. Drink from now to 2027.
Day 1: Needs 2.5 hours then power, ripeness and precision. Huge acidity and luscious yellow fruits. So clean and pure. So fresh. Long. After 3 hours this was singing.
Day 2: Huge, evocative nose. Yellow fruits, indian spices (curry?), clean, luscious palate, which has gained more heft and complexity. Even more juicy and enjoyable today.
2015 Gilles Berlioz Chignin-Bergeron "Mon Ami" - $35.99
($135.96 4-pack) (LIMITED)
2015 Gilles Berlioz Rousette de Savoie "El Hem" - $38.99
($147.96 4-pack) (VERY LIMITED)
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