incredible palate and works tirelessly to review the wines of Burgundy so that buyers have an accurate view of the wines. He's one of the best critics out there and certainly considered by most to be the top US-based Burgundy critic.
We live in a complex world and are constantly bombarded with information. To combat this, we need a series of summaries to help us make sense of things. Part of any critic's job is to create concise, clear vintage summaries.Many growers in 2015 picked late and the wines and Allen Meadows did his job and eloquently stated that the wines are generally "creatures of the vintage" (i.e. heavier and lacking in acidity).
But Allen Meadows did not taste at Chavy-Chouet and I did. I am telling you these are on par with his spectacular 14s and maybe better. Romaric told me that he picked earlier to avoid the lack of acidity that plagued others in this vintage. In case you did not see it in the title:
Chavy's 2015s have higher scientifically measurable acidity than in 2013 or 2014 (as measured by ph). And those of you who have had Romaric's 2013s and 2014s know that they had that acidic balance and juiciness that I crave and is the hallmark of the Fass Selections style.
You all know that the Fass Selections style and the producers that I seek out tend to not be shy on the acid. Garaudet, Girard and Poisot all have stellar acid backbones
I have two epic masterpieces from Romaric Chavy today.
Qualitatively, I'd compare them with the wines of Paul Pernot ($70 and up for single vineyard Puligny) and I love Pernot. I might like these better. The scary thing is that Romaric is still very young and is getting even better. You won't see very many Single Vineyard Premier Crus from Meursault or Meursault Narvaux of this quality anywhere near this, so if $39 or $59 is a splurge wine for you, these are the ones to splurge on.
First up is the 2015 Chavy Chouet Puligny Montrachet "Les Enseigneres" for as little as $39.99 a 4-pack. Thank you low Euro for a price that is almost criminal. $40 for wine this gorgeous is just ridiculous. Adjacent to the Grand Cru Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet this wine combines the intensity and power you get from a Grand Cru with classic Puligny character of flowers, toasted hazelnuts, iodine and top notch finesse. Just stunning. Mineral nose with a framing of oak. After air it is an extremely mineral nose. Hickory, light smoke, green apple skins as well on the nicely elegant nose. Some wet earth notes as it warms up. Lovely aromas. Palate is elegant and so mineral. This is super pure and fresh with terrific thrust and depth. Great acidity. Mouthwatering. Great structure as well which suggests a nice window for aging.
There is also the signature Chavy-Chouet clarity and precision. One needs to pay much more for Puligny of this character. This is an easy wine to fall for, especially in the juicy, clean, forward and nervy style that 2015s at this address are shaping up to be. It has terrific energy on the palate and an almost opulent mid palate with such an incredible amount of depth. At the same time it is massive and precise with wonderful cleansing acidity. Quite a balancing act. This has terrific underlying structure and is built to age for the medium term but because of the juicy, forward nature of the 2015 vintage this will be highly enjoyable as a young wine.
Next up is the stunning, drop dead gorgeous 2015 Chavy Chouet Meursault 1er Cru "Les Genevrieres" for as little as $57.99 on a 3 pack. This is one of the great 1er Crus in all of Meursault. It is in the southern sector of Meursault and is right in the middle. Legend has it that Genevrieres is referring to the juniper bushes that are all over the slope and some say the wine smells of juniper berries sometimes. I haven't smelled them yet. This wine though is nutty like a great Genevrieres can be with wonderful mineral and fresh salty ocean scents and minerality on the nose. There is huge aromatic depth here that hints of green herbs as well. Just a sick nose. Genevrieres has the reputation of being somewhat flabby which is definitely not the case here as this Genevrieres has terrific refreshing and vivid acidity that is present throughout the attack and mid palate and finish. Incredible concentration and intensity with such pure flavors and delineation. Super savory finish and so mineral throughout. Wow. I was slack-jawed after tasting this. Throw on me some overalls and call me Cletis! This is some Meursault. Drink now through 2030.
2015 Chavy Chouet Puligny Montrachet "Les Enseigneres" - $41.99 ($159.96 4-pack)
2015 Chavy Chouet Meursault 1er Cru "Les Genevrieres" - $59.99 ($173.97 3-pack)
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