As a wine importer I feel you have a duty for this generation and future generations to do something great. To be innovative and to take risks. That is what it is all about. How else could wines from Bandol, Ajaccio, Irancy, Swabia, Chinon, Saumur, Etna and Baden come to be on wine lists and shelves of retail stores if it wasn't for some importer who did not care that it wasn't financially prudent to sell Cabernet Franc from Chinon, when you had all you needed in St. Emilion. Importers need to go to new regions to find new things or we'll never get to try the new, awesome value, interesting wines. Coulanges-de-Vineuse is a sleepy enclave where the value is at in Burgundy. This is a regional appellation so think Cote de Nuits Villages and Hautes Cotes de Beaune but with meatier flavors more akin to Gevrey-Chambertin. It is around 20 kilometers south of Auxerre and it is a stunning region. It's around 135 hectares, but vines grow next to cherry trees and walnut trees as grape growing is not the only game in town. It became an AOC in 1993, when seven communes including Coulanges-de-Vineuse, could use the AOC. Before that it was wiped out completely by phyloxxera in the first half of the 20th Century and many had to find other work. There are only 15 growers in the entire region. Overwhelmingly red, Pinot Noir and little Cesar, but there is some rose, sparkling and white. The reds are the star of the show here.
The producer I selected to introduce you to the wines of Coulanges-de-Vineuse is the brilliant Benjamin Borgnat. Benjamin is a fascinating man, which various interests and a very large family, with 5 delightful kids. He is very good friends with Thierry Richoux in Irancy which is only s few kilometers away. He also did a stint at Pierre Overnoy. Like most of my producers, he works his tail off to make the most of his terroir. It shows.
Today I bring you Benjamin Borgnat's latest releases. First up is the 2013 Domaine Borgnat Coulanges-la-Vineuse "Chateau d'Escolives" for as little as $22.99 on a 4-pack. If you want more depth than the basic Cuvée, which I love and have sold proudly, but still with the classic Coulanges clarity and freshness, then the "Chateau d'Escolives" is your best bet. The 2013 is a terrific wine and am very proud to be working with Benjamin Borgnat in 2017. The wine is mostly Pinot Noir with some Cesar, which is a local varietal that works very well down here. Super deep nose with lovely plush raspberry tones. Much darker than the Tradition (regular Cuvée) with terrific spice and great complexity aromatically. Sweet fruit on the palate and lots of depth. Fine elegant tannins and lots of depth. So much depth. Floral notes add to the complexity with aeration. This is a terrific wine and tremendous value. Think of this as the big brother to the tradition. More serious and more structured. This will age for 7-12 years, maybe more. They are selling the 2005 at the estate, as they always hold back "d'Escolives" to resell it later. I love this wine.
Up next is the 2013 Domaine Borgnat Coulanges-la-Vineuse "Tete de Cuvee" for as little as $21.99 on a 4-pack. This wine is so good and shows the potential of the region. Incredible aromas with vivid berry fruit and loads of minerals and a pure and clear, clean yet rustic vibe. Nervy and intense palate but with tremendous saturating fruit and some silk, which is a hint of things to come as I had a 2008 and a 2005 and these wines get gloriously transparent with some bottle age. 2013 has much better material than 2008 here so expect big things from this down the road. The Pinot Noir here is so unique, less tannic than Irancy, but has more freshness. The tannins on this wine are absolutely amazing. So suave and elegant but also indicative of the amazing vineyard work that Benjamin Borgnat does. The acid is no slouch either and really makes all the voluminous 2013 fruit you get beautifully juicy. This wine is winning all the way. The structure is tremendous and deep. This will age beautifully for 8-12 years and is one of the values of the year. So much so we have a special case price of $19.99 a bottle.
2013 Domaine Borgnat Coulanges la Vineuse "Tete de Cuvee" - $23.99 ($87.96 4-pack) ($239.88 case price ($19.99))2013 Domaine Borgnat Bourgogne Coulanges la Vineuse"Chateau d'Escolives" Reserve - $24.99 ($91.96 4-pack)
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