David Léclapart!David Léclapart!
He is likely the best winemaker in Champagne who most people have never heard of.
He may be the best winemaker in France who most people have never heard of.
I can't believe I got my hands on a cuvee of David Léclapart at this price!
There are winemakers and there are artists. And then there are winemakers who are artists. David Léclapart is in the last category; he is one of the most talented winemakers in all of France. He is making some of the most incredible wines in Champagne and is a relative unknown in the US. Why? Read on...
When I used to work at Chambers Street Wine as a salesperson, I spent some time at the cash register, and at that time, behind the cash register was the Champagne section. This was back in 2003 when Champagne was not anywhere near as hot as it is today and it was still somewhat of a celebration wine. I always looked and pondered and researched the bottles behind me and the one that confounded me the most was David Léclapart.
Léclapart's has always produced miniscule quantities and his US prices were high before the grower Champagne boom ($50-$65) - so he never got a following in the US. And now that his prices in France are even higher (and his production a ridiculously small 15,000 bottles per year), the wines are normally expensive in the US for their level of recognition.
So back to 2003. I took some home and it was love at first sniff and then sip. The minerality, the precision, the chalkiness, the depth, the finesse, the whole package. The importer at the time, Joe Dressner, stopped working with them. Then all of a sudden they got crazy expensive in France. That also coincided with David's evolution as a winemaker. He is making some of the most singular and distinct wines in all of France. They are a must try and that is why I am offering them on a Saturday as I have gotten a parcel at quite frankly, ridiculous prices.
Today I have the NV (LV2010) David Leclapart 1er Cru l'Artiste for $109.99 NET. Compare at $160-$211. This is 100% Chardonnay from 30-50 year old vines and is a Blanc de Blancs to die for. From 3 different plots on Trapail it is fermented in 50% Oak (21 year old Domaine Leflaive barrels) and 50% Enameled Steel (stainless steel imparts negative energy he says). He has been certified biodynamic since 2000. This is my favorite wine from David Leclapart. This is one of the purest most elegant Blanc de Blancs I have ever had. It has sap and mineral extract for days. The complexity and depth is just profound. The palate is uber deep, uber mineral and very savory. It is beautifully harmonious and complex Champagne and even when young has starting aromas of all types of mineral, brioche and ripe pears. After this cuvee ages it gets very stony and herbal on the nose and with the inner mouth aromas. This is a highly individual Champagne in that once you have Leclapart there is nothing else in Champagne that will scratch that itch. This, like all of his Champagnes are released with no dosage and minimal sulphur. I think this will be best from 2020-2028. I find these do need time to unwind. Because it is very cold in Trapail, the wines mature slowly and have very high acidity. These have tremendous aging potential. When these are closed they are brutally closed but when open or you hear they are open, stop what you are doing and run to the nearest bottle of L'Artiste you can find and open it!
NV LV10 David Leclapaart 1er Cru Champagne l'Artiste - $109.99 NET
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