I was the first guy in New York to really push dry German riesling. I was the first guy to push a broad portfolio of German pinot noirs.
And now, I am banging the drum as hard as I can with both hands for this new generation of Rhone white producers.
Rhone whites are a category where the wines are great old but could be obnoxious when young. They had the opulence, but none of the balance until they aged and mellowed.
But I've found Rhone whites that have the scintillating fruit that we love in great whites combined with the minerality and acidity that we crave.
Wines of balance.
And today, I have perhaps the greatest practitioner in my portfolio.
- in perhaps the greatest Rhone white vintage of my lifetime.
I am begging you to try these wines. Honestly, they are so good that if I can't explain them adequately, I've totally failed as a wine professional and failed you because you will miss out on them, which I really, really don't want to happen. These wines will convince you that this is a category that belongs alongside Champagne, White Burgundy and German riesling as one of the great white wines of the world.
2015 as we all know is a benchmark vintage for the Northern Rhone and specifically Syrah. But it's also a once in a lifetime vintage for Marsanne. This is the best time to try these wines.
First let me start with the 2015 Bernard Gripa St. Peray "Les Figuieres" for $37.99 on a 3-pack. This wine is for me, in the top 10 Northern Rhone whites. St. Peray is in a type of awakening as you have top guys like Remy Nodin, Stephane Robert (Domaine du Tunnel) and Fabrice Gripa
absolutely taking this appellation to heights it has never seen before. This is one of the more mineral expressions of St. Peray out there.
The 2015 is an amazing wine and wine I need to sell. The yellow color is the first thing to stand out. The nose is a mix of citrus, spice and dried fruits. It has a rich, deep and complex nose and on the palate it is rich and silky with chewy depth and man does this linger. But there is killer salty extract. It is very stylish and classy in only the way that the best wines can be. The oak is there but so well integrated like it would be on a great young white Burg and it has astounding mineral length. It stains your palate. It is elegant and has incredible intensity but also is knit so finely on your palate that you could swear this costs 3-4 times more than it is. It is a blend of 70% Roussanne from vines planted in 1960-62 and 30% Marsanne from vines planted in 1946 and the 50's. They are vinified apart. It is raised in 20% new and 80% 1-4 year old oak for 11 months. The first vintage was 1997. This is a beautiful wine and I cannot recommend it enough. It is almost a red wine in white wines clothes and this is not an obvious wine but very subtle. One of the more cerebral wines I have offered.
Fabrice, a few years ago, opened up a 2000 for me and it was eye opening. It was beautiful with a silken texture, exotic flavors and wonderful interesting minerality and enough acidity to keep it together. The level of earthiness and minerality was so distinctive and unlike anything I have ever tasted. It also still has enough structure that it could age and improve for many years. All I was thinking of how it would be so delicious, even more delicious with 5 more years of age. Yes, you heard me right, more age. With the right food this could be a heavenly combo. It is amazing to me how it aged so well from a vintage that is good but not great. But in a great vintage for Northern Rhone whites how would it age? Enter 2015. Jeb Dunnuck gave it 94 points and this is his review below. This will drink well young but age for 15 years.
"Coming from an appellation that's on the upswing, the 2015 Saint Péray les Figuiers reveals more minerality and saltiness, as well as gorgeous notes of white flowers, white peach, crushed rocks and a touch of brioche. Crisp, clean, taut and with sensational precision, it's easily the finest white from St Péray for Gripa." 94 pts Jeb Dunnuck
Up next is the big boy and one of the best whites of the Northern Rhone.The 2015 Bernard and Fabrice Gripa St. Joseph Blanc "Le Berceau" for as little as $49.99 on a 4-pack. It had terrific intensity and an incredibly kaleidoscopic minerally nose. Unforgettable minerality. The palate has an unreal juiciness and freshness that belies its aged character. It's rieslingesque in that it is so fresh and fruity yet so secondary and mineral. I gave a detailed note on the 98 because the 14 is from a better vintage, Fabrice is a better winemaker and the vibes are older. I drank it at 17 years of age which was perfect but it could go 3-4 more years. For my money this is the best value in Northern Rhone white that is not Chave Blanc. It has an incredible nose of yellow fruits, roasted nuts and slightly roasted peaches. Delightful. If you keep sniffing you get more suggestions of aromas. It's young but it's deep. The palate has terrific richness balanced by perfect acids. Cooked citrus fruits and amazing intensity on the peacocks tail of a finish. The texture is silky, suave and unlike any of the wines I sell. In a word, brilliant. This will drink well young but be open after 2-3 years and last and improve 15+ years.
The oldest vines are from the 20s while the average age is 62 years. It is made the same way as the St. Peray in that it sees 20% new oak and the. 1-4 year old oak. Fabrice opened the 98 Le Berceau Blanc and it blew my mind and reminded me what can be very good in its youth can be profound as it ages. Especially if it is dominantly Marsanne. This is limited. This will stun all of your wine friends at blind tastings in 10-15 years. This got the rare 94 pts from Jeb Dunnuck and 5 stars from John Livingston-Learmouth. Both reviews are below. This will drink well young.
" . . .pretty full yellow robe. The nose is large, not much open, bears a weighty and ripe fruit content. There are hints of petrol and aniseed with a roasted nuts, nougat suggestion: we are further south than St Joseph on the nose. The palate is broad and sustained, right from the off. This imposes, and is a kingly wine with its steady assertion of ripe flavour and near red wine structure. This really covers the ground, takes you on an Ordnance Survey, detailed walk. Very good with all the greats of Vieille France cuisine, Escoffier school - pieds et paquets, ris de veau, poulet de Bresse in a morilles sauce - bring 'em on! Decanting a necessity. It will be much better and more expressive when aged five years or more. From mid-2018. This is a proper, glycerol-based white Rhône, no sign of New Wave trash here. ***** John Livingston Learmouth
"A bigger, richer effort that comes from the old vines of the estate, the 2015 Saint Joseph Le Berceau Blanc is loaded with notes of caramelized peach, crushed rocks, brioche and white flowers. Still a touch backward and reserved, it needs a year of bottle age, but is a sensational white not to be missed. To give some perspective on when to drink these, the 2013 is incredible today, and I've tasted this cuvée going back over a decade with terrific results." 94 pts Jeb Dunnuck
2015 Bernard and Fabrice Gripa St. Peray "Les Figuiers" - $39.99
($151.96 4-pack)
2015 Bernard and Fabrice Gripa St. Joseph Blanc "Le Berceau" - $52.99 ($199.96 4-pack)
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