Two Incredible Chablis from a Top 5 Producer - Fabien Dauvissat Is a New Force in Chablis

I always try and rely on the most knowledgeable wine professionals in each region, where I can.  In
the Rhone, it is the Greek and in Chablis, the local expert I rely on is the owner of Au Fil du Zinc. He sold me a bottle of Fabien Dauvissat's wine and I drove over there the next day. Fabien is a genius. He works his tail off in the vineyards to create wines of sick levels of intensity.  He is one of the top 5 winemakers in Chablis and he's so young, it's scary how good he is going to be when he gets older. Any Burgundy collector is going to want to have these in their cellar.

As I learn about my producers I am starting to think Fabien Dauvissat's wines are like Martin Muellen in the Mosel. How? Stay with me here. Martin's wines have an intensity to them no matter what vintage you have. They also have huge amounts of dry extract. These are chewy white wines but still because they come from great vineyards are attended to by great winemakers the wines have a sense of zen and refinement only the best whites in the world have. Also both of them use longer than normal aging regimens for the elevage which results in wines that can last an extraordinary amount of time open. Also they both are incredibly inexpensive for what they are and represent some of the more startling values in the portfolio.

They are rich, textured, and unabashedly Chablis with razor sharp ripping classic Fass Selections' acids, mineral/Kimmeridgian expression that is unparalleled. There is length, structure and most of all, these wines are Mariana Trench DEEP. The AC and the lieu dit AC have the depth of a 1er Cru and certain 1er Cru's, like today's have the depth of a Grand Cru. Fabien is incredibly talented and definitely has the special sauce.

Up first is what I can unequivocally say is the silliest, tastiest, most inexpensive Chablis value we have offered since we were selling Sebastien Dampt's 11's for nothing. Today I can offer the 2015 Jean Dauvissat Pere & Fils Chablis "Heritage" for as little as $22.99 on a 4-pack. This is a RIDICULOUS deal. This has the power and depth of a very good premier cru Chablis . Easy.  This has the same elevage as the wonderful 1er Crus and is a selection of vines planted in the 40s and 50s. Simply put, the wine is amazing.  In the psycho value category. Very, very floral nose with intense minerality and big step up over the regular Chablis AC.  This has splendid density and length. So pure. Serious vigor and minerality to burn. There is great fruit and so much depth. Shows how juicy 2015 can be in the right hands.  This has tremendous sap and energy that showcase how beautiful this vintage is. I know you will adore 2015 like I do. And remember this in a normal vintage like 2014 has off the charts acidity, but in a vintage like 15, where some had lower acidity, Fabien has pitch perfect acids. I think this will age for 5-10 years but is so appealing in its precocious youth. This will be allocated.

Up next I have what is Fabien's so called Grand Cru, his 2015 Jean Dauvissat Chablis 1er Cru "Fourchaume" for as little as $32.99 on a 4-pack.  This is one of my favorite Chablis bottlings from any producer in any vineyard - an absolutely insane bottle of wine.  It is brilliant and so different than his always briliant Montmains, which is neck and neck with the Fourchaume.It for me, has a roundness to it that is its trademark but also on a bed of minerality that is intermingled throughout. It is absurdly concentrated and juicy that one sip lasts minutes. But you'll take plenty of sips before those minutes are up. It is just absurdly complex, ripe yet soothingly mineral with terrific acids. It is compact and so long.  That mineral drive is extremely apparent and vivid in this wine in 2015. Their is terrific fruit in this with green apple, spice and even a hint of smokiness. The complexity of the Fourchaume from Fabien in 2015 is breathtaking.

This, like the Heritage is still in barrel and waiting to be bottled in April. That extra elevage that Fabian does gives these wines an extra dimension. Fuller bodied with compelling mineral drive. Fourchaume has earned its reputation as one of the best 1er Cru sites in Chablis and with good reason. The slope it lies on is in the same progression as the Grand Crus. It has ideal southwest exposure. So even in not so great years the grapes can reach maturity. in 2015 it has soared to huge heights.

2015 Jean Dauvissat Pere & Fils Chablis "Heritage" - $24.99

 ($91.96 4-pack) 

2015 Jean Dauvissat Pere & Fils Chablis 1er Cru "Fourchaume" - $34.99 ($131.96 4-pack)