My Second Vintage of the New Star in Chablis - Fabien Dauvissat - Top 5 Producer - Buy Now, 2016 Had Almost Zero WineSo one of the headlines for me this trip was how flat out great many of the '15 white burgundies were and are. But nothing could have prepared me for what young Fabien Dauvissat did in this vintage. But after a few weeks of reflection I totally get why he made such great wines in 2015. I've only sold the 14s of Fabien and he has one of the longest elevages I know of in Chablis (the 15 1er Crus were bottled less than a month ago) which I think gives these wines a neck up in the aging curve versus wines that are made with normal elevage. In fact I'll say that it takes longer for these wines to fully express themselves (open for hours or days or laying in the cellar for years seems to work, but then again I've only worked with two vintages and don't have a grasp of the aging curve of these wines) because of the long elevage and also the electric acidity he gets. His 14s have Martin Müllen levels of acid and his 15s are a notch below but still had some of best freshness of any 15s on the whole trip. These are remarkable wines and have gained in intensity, freshness and depth since I tasted them last year. One issue. There are precious few left. Fabien proudly stated that all the the 15s in bottle stacked against the walls were all sold. Every bottle. Maybe someone will turn some down and I'll get a bit more. They are a stunning example of a young winegrower killing a warm vintage like no other I have ever witnessed. He rode this vintage like a surfer does a huge wave. These wines left me speechless. This is the final offer of Fabien's wines in '15 and we all know there will be little to less than little of '16 Chablis. I'm pretty sure there is no Montmains at all in '16 as frost and hail did it in. Today is a great opportunity to grab some of these brilliant Chablis by the rising young star of the region. These both are limited.
First up is the 2015 Jean Dauvissat Pere & Fils Chablis 1er Cru "Vaillons" for $29.99 on a 4-pack. This is a superb example of Vaillons. The purity and depth of the nose is what strikes you first. Huge mineral, oyster shells, some green apple and a sense of refinement. It also has that classic Chablis wafting oyster shells with and all types of green fruits. Juicy and extremely deep. A word about the depth and long elevage. I find as a result of Fabien's elevage technique these wines have uncommon depth. Dense and so chewy the dry extract is very impressive. The wine is stacked. Huge inner mouth aromas with an insanely long and complex finish. Sappy, dense and so fresh. Electric. I could not believe the depth and length of this wine. Impeccable balanced and impossibly delicate as well. Gorgeous wine. This is limited.
Up next is the 2015 Jean Dauvissat Pere & Fils Chablis 1er Cru "Montmains" for $29.99 on a 4-pack. It hailed a week before harvest but that just made Fabien work harder. This nose has that something extra. Stunning. So special. The deepest nose of all the 15 1er Crus. Wafting, delicate and elegant with so much mineral intensity. A major core of mineral extract on the palate is just so intense. Mineral elegance floats in and out on the haunting nose. The palate is so finesse-driven, so pure, so elegant. It has the same depth as the other 1er Crus but is the most elegant. Deep and obviously closed from bottling but still gorgeous. Super saline palate and super mineral. Just a screaming Mimi. It just stays glued to your mouth. What intensity. Long. Long. Again a stunner with exquisite balance. Such sap. Such a core of mineral extract. Again. So so long. Juicy. This is limited.
I've tried the 14s and this man is talented beyond belief, even if you are expecting him to be very talented. Truly brilliant expressions of Chablis that will enthrall you every time you pop one. Alas, I'm in the wrong continent to get some 15s from Lyle.
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