Thursday, May 24, 2018

Ready, Set Go...Two More High Scoring Muellen Wines from His Perfect 2016 Vintage - These Will Be Allocated

Müllen's 16s Are Almost All Perfect

2016 Martin Müllen Krover Letterlay Spatlese Trocken**
"It is probably one of the finest dry Rieslings I have had in my life"  95 Points  Stephan Rheinhardt 

2016 Martin Müllen Trarbacher Würzgarten Kabinett Trocken
 -  93 PTS Stephan Rheinhardt
 - Incredibly Refined, Fruity, Yet Feminine
 - Elegant, Salty, Mineral

Should we just get right into it? I think we should. Tasting Martin Müllen's 16s was one of the great
wine tasting experiences of my life. Müllen's 16s are almost all perfect and some of the best Rieslings on the planet and the value cannot and will not ever be beaten or overstated. This is the ultimate DTC dream estate. I tasted and loved all the wine. Then I sold tons of the older wines as he had an ocean of them on his list back in 2013-2014. I did OK with the current vintages back then but people didn't want to buy current vintages when the old stuff was flowing and inexpensive. It's never moved and the provenance was perfect. Well that spigot ended a while back. The people who loaded up were very smart. But I kept telling anyone who would listen, yes, the older wines are great and all but the stuff Martin is making now will make older bones than those wines and more importantly is better because Martin is a better winemaker than he was in 1995/1998. It's just a fact. The 2012 vintage for me at Müllen was a turning point I think. That's the vintage that put Trarbacher Huhnerberg Spatlese Trocken* on the map as Stephan Rheinhardt scored it as the highest scoring dry wine in Germany that year with a 96. It's a wonderful wine and trademark wine at Müllen. I've happily sold the no star, one star and the very rare **. It's a great site on the level of Wehlener Sonnenuhr or Abtserde or Scharzhofberger. Martin made incredible 13s, 14s. Then he raised his game more in 2015. The wines reached another level of refinement and purity. The site expression was top notch. These now were the greatest dry wines in the Mosel. But then I tasted 2016. My jaw dropped to the ground. Now after 15, in 2016, Martin has added refinement. Not that the wines before were not refined but they had reached a level of refinement that only the greatest estates in the Mosel have. Egon Muller, JJ Prum come to mind. But they don't make dry wine. The only competition is Markus Molitor I'd say. But I find Martin's 16s so refined and more refined than any Molitor wine I've had. But then I haven't had as many as Martin's so I can't comprehensively say. Anyway, as many of you have heard by now Stephan Rheinhardt has anointed Martin Müllen with bonkers scores for his 2016's. Martin is now in elite company. Keller, Molitor, Van Volxem, Mullen. This is the top dry stuff you can get in Germany.

Krover Leterrlay I've got a Spatlese Trocken** today that Stephane Rheinhardt describes as "It is Now I have the 2016 Martin Müllen Krover Letterlay Spatlese Trocken** for $37.99 a bottle on a 4-Pack. This got 95 pts from Stephane Rheinhardt. This will be allocated. Martin is getting a lot more interest since his 16 scores dropped. So I don't have unlimited supply anymore but I have Ok amounts. I'm not going to lie. This wine is ridiculous. My description will be lacking compared to Stephan's epic 95 point review. The nose screams of slate and minerality. Massively huge perfume. This comes from a different section than the one star. Vines are 38 years old and it is directly on the Mosel. Sick cotton candy aromas as well develop with the slate. The soil in this vineyard is deep and over the vineyard is a spring. The palate is just incredibly round, harmonious, insanely juicy and so clean. Juicy, round, long and ultra refined. The roundness in 2016 also really puts the cherry on top of Martin's 16's. They are round yet so acidic and fruity and refined. That's what reminds me of Keller and Coche in 2016 here. This has top top finesse and finishes insanely sappy and mineral. Mind-blowing and amazing.
probably one of the finest dry Rieslings I have had in my life. Am I kidding you? I don't know, but this is Riesling at its very best."

I'll let Stephan Rheinhardt take it away.

"From 38-year-old vines in the Eichhaus plot on deeper and more humid red slate compared to the one-starred Spätlese, the 2016 Riesling Kröver Letterlay Spätlese Trocken ** shows a beautiful mix of extremely smoky/flinty notes of crushed/weathered, fat/oily slate plates, salt and ripe, tropical fruit aromas such as pineapples, mangos and peaches. Add some herbs, and you are almost there. At least this is a nose that draws a landscape. Full-bodied, round and salty, this is a powerful, highly complex, salty, firmly structured and still astringent yet highly elegant, finessed and crystalline Riesling with incredible structure, complexity and length. Don't take it for what it is at first sight. Drink a glass, put the bottle back into your fridge for five or seven days, then taste the wine again and fall in love with it. This simply gorgeous dry Mosel Riesling with finesse and complexity is mind-blowing. It is terribly long and juicy, revealing very fine minerals, tannins and fruit flavors. It is probably one of the finest dry Rieslings I have had in my life. Am I kidding you? I don't know, but this is Riesling at its very best. This is a wine for your cellar, although it's already super sexy in its lush fruit today. Bottled with 12% alcohol at the end of May 2017, so earlier than the Hühneberg Spätlesen, which were bottled at the end of August. Tasted February 2018. 95 POINTS Stephan Rheinhardt

Up next we have only a little bit as the Germans are nutso over Kabinett and Martin is the undisputed master of the Kabinett Trocken genre. He kills at it. Usually they are too screechy and dry. Not at Chez Müllen where they are fruity enough not to be screechy but also have wonderful mineral character and lightness of touch. But make no mistake this is as serious as the top wine and will age gloriously for 20+ years. The 2016 Martin Müllen Trarbacher Würzgarten Kabinett Trocken can be had for $24.99 NET. This got 93 points from Stephan Rheinhardt. That's some blazing QPR there. Super mineral nose and very refined. Citrus and slate abound. Palate is juicy and so clean. So elegant, salty and mineral. Balanced, insanely juicy and complex. Terrific minerality and length. But what cleanliness and refinement. If this was Keller or Muller this would be 75+. The review is below.


"The 2016 Riesling Trabener Würzgarten, Kabinett Trocken is very clear and delicate on the bright, spicy and refreshingly mineral nose with its stony/flinty notes. Round, lush and elegant on the palate, this is a more fruity and generous yet filigreed and feminine Kabinett compared to the Kröver Paradies. It's salty-piquant and tight on the finish, pretty long, complex and pure. Tasted February 2018." 93 POINTS Stephan Rheinhardt

2016 Martin Muellen Krover Letterlay Spatlese Trocken** - $39.99 ($151.96 4-pack) (VERY LIMITED)
2016 Martin Muellen Trabener Wurzgarten Kabinett - $24.99 NET (VERY LIMITED)

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