- These Wines Can Compete with the Best in the Cote de Beaune
The First Movement of Mozart's Jupiter is Almost a Harbinger of Beethoven's Stylistic Innovations
- A Bridge Between Classicism and Romanticism
Boussey's Wines Can Be Seen as a Similar Stylistic Meld
- The Elegance and Pure Beauty of a JanotsBos
- The Power and Richness of a Florent Garaudet or Chavy Chouet
His 2016s Are Epic Works of Beauty
- On the Relative Unknown, Crazy Underpriced Part of the Price Curve Evolution
2016 Laurent Boussey Meursault 1er Cru "Charmes"
- Nose: Aromatic, Layered, Complex, Super Mineral, Citrus, Hazelnuts
- Palate: Effortlessly Balances Pure Power with Terrific Intense and Echoing Acidity
- Echoing Finish: Salty, Mineral, WOW.
- Sick, Sick, Sick, Sick Complexity.
- A Chance to Taste the Pure Beauty of Burgundy for Well Under $100 (It's Only $55.99)
- Compare Mega-Negociant Charmes at $90-$100 This is Way, Way Better
2016 Laurent Boussey Monthelie Blanc
- Nose of Apple, Huge White Flowers, Mineral, Apple Skins, Hazelnuts
- Bright and Sappy, Lemony Intensity
- Great Length - Mineral and Salty
- Amazing Value and Introduction to Boussey for $30.99
Without boring everyone expecting to read about wine with a history of symphonic music, the classical symphonic composers relied on a relatively strict adherence to formalistic structure. Think early Mozart. When you get to later Beethoven (think the first movement of the 5th or the 9th) formal structure is a jumping off point for the creativity of the composer. By the time you get to Mahler, for example, you are in full blown Romanticism. The first movement of the Jupiter is almost a harbinger of Beethoven. Mozart seems to be pushing beyond the edges of the norm in his exposition of the theme and his use of polyphony. It is truly a tragedy that he died so young and we were denied the products of his evolution as a composer.
Laurent told me in my last visit that his dream has been realized and actualized in 2016 and 2017. The style is a cross between the "classical" JanotBos (lean, straight, mineral, high high acid) and the more "romantic" Garaudet (high acid, bigger, richer, buttery, opulent). I love the style here and I think this is the best crossover style for many Fass clients here. The Uber geeks who love acid and terroir expression will find a lot to like here and people who enjoy a bit more roundness and richness will as well. This is why I've picked up Laurent, as his combo of super primo terroir and young talented winemaker with endless ambition is always a recipe for success. I loved his 15s and had a faboosh bottle of his 15 Meursault Vieilles Vignes recently as well as the 15 Caillerets (which was utterly ridiculous). But the 16s have the laser like precision, minerality and terroir footprint we have come to expect from Laurent Boussey. In short, Laurent is my new White Burgundy star.Please believe me. We are VERY LUCKY to have another Meursault 1er Cru Charmes that is as that is the 2016 Laurent Boussey Meursault 1er Cru "Charmes" for $55.99 a bottle on a 3-Pack. That is an insane price for this wine. This is super, super refined stuff with incredible breeding and amazing acidity. Complex and super mineral nose. Some cotton candy there and so much layered ephemeral complexity. Lime pith and zest, lemon zest, butter, minerals, hazelnuts and many rock scented aromas. Super elegant, super fine and super complex and very juicy palate. Hits every taste bud seemingly at the same time. Incredible palate impact. Charmes usually has some fat/gras to it and the 16 effortlessly balances that pure power with terrific intense and echoing acidity that makes it just explode on the finish. Very intense wine. Wonderful freshness and so so pure. Amazingly delicate yet also powerful, full-bodied and concentrated. Fresh and intense. Long and stunning. Salty, mineral finish. Incredible poised. Really terrific potential here. Unbelievable deal as one needs to spend a lot more to get a Charmes of this quality. Laurent is producing brilliant wines that can easily compete some of the top estates in the Côte de Beaune. This is from 45 year old vines.
good as the Chavy-Chouet (albeit very different and a bit cheaper),
The second wine is one of the better values of the 2016 vintage. The 2016 Laurent Boussey Monthelie Blanc can be had for $30.99 on a 4-Pack. This wine is utterly brilliant and one of the better values of the vintage. This is a super mineral wine with intense brightness. Nose of apple, huge white flowers, mineral, apple skins, hazelnuts and meyer lemon. Yet there is also intense nervy aromatic sap. Bright and sappy would be my two big descriptors for the 2014 vintage. Nose and palate. There is terrific lemony intensity to go along with all that sap and brightness. Elegant with great snap and freshness. So clean, so mineral, so long and salty. Stunningly accessible but can age for 5-7 years. Drinks like $40+.
When I am tasting at a new estate I try to keep a poker face but being a passionate guy that is difficult in certain cases. It's easy when the wines stink as then I can keep a poker face and be polite and carry on with my day. But when the wines are very good to profound I always lose my poker face and start exhibiting the passion I am famous for and keeps everyone coming back for more. At Laurent Boussey I lost my poker face bigtime. I could not believe how terrific the wines are. After around the 4th wine, I blurted out, "you're a brilliant winemaker." My driver/translator looked at me like I was crazy as I was telling her the whole time not to show any emotion at new estates as we don't want to act desperate or show our hand. As soon as I tasted the fourth or fifth wine I had called the winemaker a genius and lost any leverage that I could of potentially had. And you know what? I don't care. The tasting became more relaxed as Laurent knew a deal was made and he could chill a bit. We had a wonderful tasting and the wines are just stunning. This is one of those estates that started with just a little bit of so so terroir.
Laurent started his own Domaine in 2003 after working with his father for a few years after he graduated wine school. He only had Monthelie red and white, one white 1er Cru and red and white Bourgogne. 2 hectares. He turned 2 hectares into 14. 7 came from his father who retired and he inherited them, and the rest came from Laurent's relentless hard work and persistence. He told me was lucky and knows it as he knew many people who were retiring and who had parcels for acquiring. It's pretty amazing to go from 2 to 7 and then 7 to 14 with so many great appellations. I love the style at Domaine Laurent Boussey. Freshness is the name of the game here. These are so Fassy and fit into the core principles of what I look for in an estate. (List principles here). Having said that the fruit and terroir expression Laurent gets from his wines is nothing short of sensational. I was really wowed by so many of his wines. There is no one to compare him to in my book really. His wines are so different from Florent Garaudet, my other producer in Monthelie.
No comments:
Post a Comment