Tuesday, July 24, 2018

750s and 375s of 1994 Mosel Auslese from One of the Mosel's Top Estates - Brauneberger Juffer Vineyard

1994 Licht-Bergweiler Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Auslese 375
1994 Licht-Bergweiler Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Auslese 750
 - Classic, Classic, Classic Mosel Riesling
 - One of the Top Estates in the Mosel (Back Then)
 - A Remarkable, Complex Drink
 - The Last of the Last Bottles... Speak Now.

What do Gentaz-Dervieux, Claire Dau, Raymond Trollat and Schloss Eltz all have in common? They all made terrific world-class wine and they alll do not exist anymore. Surely there must be more estates beyond these that were the bee's knees and then hung it up for one reason or another. Of course there are. Licht-Bergweiler was one of the great old estates of the Mosel. They were firmly in the 2nd tier behind JJ Prum and Willi Schaefer. The wines were spectacular old school Mosel style. Kind of like Müllen crossed with Willi Schaefer.

Today I can proudly offer the 1994 Licht-Bergweiler Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Auslese (375
ml) for $27.99 a half bottle (375m ML) NET and $39.99 on a 750 ML bottle NET. These are limited and some will be disappointed. You will never, ever find a better deal for a well stored bottle of aged Mosel Auslese. It's not and will never be possible. A half bottle Stefan Steinmetz initially opened for me some years back blew my mind. Every bottle of the '94 Ive drank I thought , "hmmmm how would that be in 5-10 years?" Now you all (and hopefully me) get to have that opportunity. The wine is sick. I've offered it before and it has crazy crazy fans. This ranks with some of the greatest sweet wines I have had.  It is elegant, chiseled and with wonderful and opulent fruit but all the acidity '94 is known for. Like many great wines, it is delicious but also fascinating to drink with many secondary and tertiary flavors that appear and recede over the course of an evening.  I won't bore you with a list of them. Unless someone brings perfectly aged DRC or the like, this will be the wine of the night. Here are my tasting notes over a 5 day period from March of last year from a 750 ml. The 375 ml shows a bit more mature. I have more 750's than 375's.

Day 1: So complete. Nose is heaven. Honey. Apricot, slate, funk. So deep on the mid palate and ripping '94 acidity. Long pure and complex.

Day 2: Better

Day 3: Even Better

Day 4: Ridiculous.

Day 5: Gone.

The wine will last for days after opening in the fridge and several decades in the cellar.  Offers like this are very, very rare.  Think of how many bottles you'll want to drink each year over 10-20 years and buy accordingly.


How did I discover this wine? I have been going to the Mosel for a long time and like any place that you have been going for a while, you get to know people. I know a good amount of people in the Mosel and I can count Stefan Steinmetz of Weingut Gunther Steinmetz as one of my close friends. He is one of the most knowledgeable people about the Mosel and Mosel wine I have ever met and has one of the best, if not the best, palates in all of Germany. If Stefan says something is good (which he rarely does), I listen. This is especially true in the Mosel as he knows it inside out and vine by vine going back 20 years. On my visit this past February, Stefan told me about an estate that was for sale in the Mosel and that they had tons of old wine they were selling at low prices. My ears perked up. He then said he had a bunch of the wines on hand and asked if I wanted to taste them. I nearly opened the bottles with my teeth I was so excited. We tasted through a bunch of wines from the Licht-Bergweiler Estate and there was one Auslese that were particularly stunning. Then he told me the prices and I nearly passed out.

1994 Licht-Bergweiler Brauneberger Juffer Auslese 750 ML - 
$39.99 NET (SOLD OUT)

1994 Licht Licht-Bergweiler Brauneberger Juffer Auslese 375 ML - $27.99 NET (VERY LIMITED)

No comments:

Post a Comment