Thursday, August 23, 2018

Our Burgundian Jewel: Micro Production, Terrific Terroir - Stunning Grand Cru Red and a Stunning White

I Have Other Great Producers in Burgundy 
 - But Remi Poisot Has the Best Terroir
 - Tiny Production, a Labor of Love
 - I Get Small Allocations, and I'm Thrilled to Sell Them
 - What Burgundy Is All About

2016 Remi Poisot Corton Bressandes
 - The Most Feminine of the Corton Grand Crus
 - Amazingly Complex Nose, Stunning Fruit, Terrific Complexity
 - Like Chambolle-Musigny Meets Corton
 - An Insane Value at $82.99 Each for a 6-Pack

2016 Remi Poisot  Pernand Vergelesses Blanc
 - Just What You Want in a Village White Wine
 - Rich, But Balacned with Bracing Acidity
 - Terrific Citrus Acidity
 - So Well Made and So Delicious
 - Very Hard to Get Village Burg This Good for Under $30

Remi Poisot when all is said and done is my best "value" producer. What he does with his three Grand Crus is nothing short of remarkable. These are "value" wines, not because you can eat them with pizza or serve them at a party but because they are incredibly underpriced given the quality and terroir.

Up first is my favorite wine to drink from Remy young. But after 3-5 years watch out. The 2016
Remi Poisot Corton Bressandes from 40-50 year old vines can be had for as little as $89.99 on a 3-pack and $82.99 on a 6-pack. Even in Remi's super cold cellar in early February it showed brilliantly. Every bottle I've opened up stateside I always think is going to be insanely closed, and it sings and soars like the Grand Cru it is. That's Bressandes for ya. I find it can be approached early despite its reputation for being a monster. Well at least Remi's. Compare other 2016 Corton-Bressandes starting at $100 and going to $225.

Gloriously open nose with superb aromatic depth. Just a gorgeous nose. Red fruits, spice, earthy and so much depth and nuance. This is the type of nose one thinks of when they think why they keep chasing Grand Cru Burgundy. Singing. Huge cherry fruit. The nose has a mineral underpinning with insanely sweet ripe and dark cherry fruit. Such spice and complexity. Big limestone footprint. Huge huge perfume. Amazing nose. It gets more detailed with air. All types of flowers, almost a pastille aroma. Amazing. You smell the fresh potting wet soil as well and it is so vivid and distinct.

Sweet and I mean sweet and sappy fruit on the palate and texture for days. The Pinot Noir trifecta. Incredible freshness and purity.  Crunchy palate and great cut and precise like the finest diamond in the world. Insane inner mouth aromas. Sweeter and more prevalent than in the 2015. The complexity is incredible. Gorgeous purity and unending length. More concentrated than the 15 and so deep. Ripe tannins of very high quality. Very pure and feminine. Like Chambolle-Musigny meets Corton. So sweet, so fine so so elegant.  Palate is loaded with sweet fruit and very muscular. It is so explosive and dense get perfectly ethereal in its hugeness like only Grand Cru Pinot can do. The piercing quality of the ridiculously intense sweet fruit combined with the sweetness (yes more sweetness) and freshness is just remarkable. Amazing texture and length. This is Grand Cru in ever way shape or form. Remarkable value here. Stunning purity and length. Lovely licorice lines the finish. Incredible balance and so decadent. Big tannins but thoroughly ripe and gives such an uncanny sense of place and is a very fine example of this vaunted Grand Cru. Remi really got astonishing freshness in his 16s. I am lucky I have these wines. Bressandes is the most feminine of the Corton GCs and has such "sweet" fruit. I think the sweetest of any Corton GC in my experience. This is a very wow wine and a reason we drink Burgundy. Here is Burghound's note for the 2015 which couldn't be more different than the 2016. The 2016 I vastly prefer which is a vintage that has the crunch and terroir transparency of 2010.

"This is also mildly reduced though in this case it appears reasonably clear that the underlying fruit is quite ripe. There is both more volume and a finer mouth feel to the sleekly muscular broad-shouldered flavors that possess a lovely sense of underlying tension, all wrapped in a firm, highly complex and impeccably well-balanced finale. This is markedly firmer and will require at least some patience."  91-93 pts, Burghound, 2015 Vintage

In 2015 the Pernand-Vergelesees Blanc arrived and it was a stunner. But in 2016 with more acidity and freshness I think it has taken another step forward and shows Remi's gentle touch at under $30.  We've got the 2016 Remi Poisot  Pernand Vergelesses Blanc for $29.99 a bottle on a 4-pack. This has terrific fruit and ripeness, but also has amazing citrus-like poignant acidity and typical Poisot refinement. This bats way way above this level as all the Poisot fans know reading this. The nose is bright and refined with lovely refined aromas of ripe pear and apple fruits intermingled with defined mineral and spice. It is very concentrated, powerful and elegant. It's massive with tremendous dry extract and finishes very dry. There is stunning citrus acidity intermingled with intense minerality. The finish is succulent and vivacious which pumps so much fruit and mineral. There is loads of elegance and refinement which is a classic Poisot trait that doesn't matter what appellation it is from. The wine comes from the opposite side of the hill of Corton and it's trademark is dazzling purity and acidity. The acid is very strong in this site Remi told me and he is right. The length is astonishing. This punches way way above its weight. $29.99 is silly. Limited and will be allocated. Below is the Burghound note for the 2015.


"A mildly exotic character suffuses the notably ripe aromas of various white orchard fruit, and in particular apple, along with subtle floral and lychee nut nuances. There is fine richness to the nicely round and agreeably textured flavors where the finishing balance is maintained by citrus-tinged acidity. While this should certainly drink well early, it's on the drier side relative to what is typical for the vintage."  88-91, Burghound (2015 Vintage)

2016 Remi Poisot Corton Bressandes - $92.99
 ($269.97 3-pack, $497.94 6-pack {$82.99}) (VERY LIMITED)

2016 Remi Poisot Pernand-Vergelesses Blanc - $31.99 
($119.96 4-pack) (LIMITED)

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