Saturday, September 8, 2018

Two Remarkable 1er Cru German Whites from a Top 10 Producer - Geeky Beyond Compare and Unbelieveably Good

2017 Weltner Iphofer Julius Echter-Berg Sylvaner Erste Lage
 - The Precision of Roulot, the Ostentatiousness of Coche-Dury
 - I Love This Vineyard's Character but It's Tough to Master
 - Weltner Kills It in 2017
 - Nose: Captivating, Spellbinding, Big, Mineral, Floral, Spicy
 - Dramatic Levels of Extract and Power
 - One of the Great Sylvaners in the World

2017 Weltner Rodelseer Kuchenmeister Riesling Trocken
 - Perhaps Our Geekiest Riesling
 - Crazy, Crazy, Crazy Minerality: Almost a Study in Minerality
 - The Fruit Is There - But More to Balance the Minerals
 - So Well Balanced.  So Well Made.
 - $24.99 for Top Tier 1er Cru Wine
 - You Will Drink This All Fast

There is nothing like the brilliant wines of Paul Weltner. It's been 5 years. I've tasted the competition and have tasted Paul's wines with age and it's no question that he is a top 10 white wine producer in
Germany. I used to say top 15, but I think he's top 10. They are insanely undervalued for what they are.  He is most famous for his Sylvaner which is made with the precision of Roulot and the ostentatiousness of Coche-Dury. Or to go to a German comparison, they have the precision of Schafer-Frohlich and the roundness of Keller. They have what we internally at Fass Selections call the wall of flavor. It's just an intensity and opulence that you get with so few wines.

Ageing Notes
With a few years of age, and please HEED this, they go from profound to spectacularly profound. It is worth it to wait. 12s/13s/14s in the Erste Lage (1er Cru) category are all really in the zone now. 12 and 13 GGs are starting now. I'd hold off on 14-15-16 GGs for now. Every bottle is dramatic. These wines bring the drama and don't just open. They unfurl like a beautiful Persian carpet runner down your palate. They are extraordinary things of beauty and age only makes them better. They are also ridiculously cheap.

Today I have two list favorites. A new (ish) favorite and an old favorite.

I did not plan on tasting or offering this wine last year but Paul poured the Paul Weltner Iphofer Julius Echter-Berg Sylvaner Erste Lage for $24.99 on a 4-pack (2016) and  it was not an option not to offer this wine. Today I have the 2017 version and oh man is it spectacular. It ups the acid and the extract and will age gloriously. Better than the 2016 which is a delight now.  This wine is very special to me as I have mad love for the vineyard but I always thought thought the Wirsching ones were a bit lacking and sometimes hot.  It has crazy soils that are strong in keuper that radiates the sun's heat and can create captivating, spellbinding aromas. Entrancing aromas. But also as it can tend to be warm it is a site, for me that misses more than it hits. Not in 2017, as it was cooler here in this area of Franken and the wines have a sense of crunch and refinement from perfectly ripe fruit but also dramatic levels of extract and power which makes this a great choice for aging. It is brilliant and in the 1er Cru category this is as good as it gets. Big, terrific, mineral, floral and spicy nose. Classic JEB. Soaring aromas, yet so precise. The palate is drop dead gorgeous. So crunchy deep and intense. Clean and easily the cleanest JEB I've ever had. What poise, texture and intensity. Wonderful pure mineral-driven flavors with exceptional balance and purity. So juicy and just stunningly opulent texture and a finish that kicks in with sweet herbal intensity. It is just beautiful. The finish dissipates perfectly. A work of art.  Warning: these are sold in Bocksbeutels.

If someone who loves wine and said give me the most delicious, unique, distinctive and most importantly "Fassy" dry Riesling I offer under $25 it would take me 2 seconds to decide as that is the easiest decision I have made since I've opened this company.

The big sleeper in the Weltner portfolio may be his most brilliant Erste Lage wine, the 2017 Paul Weltner Rodelseer Kuchenmeister Riesling Trocken Erste Lage for as little as $24.99 a bottle on the 4-pack.  First off this is the wine I ordered the most of for myself during our very first ship and always grab at least 6 bottles a vintage. The 2012 is in amazing place. The wine for me, is the ultimate, geeky Riesling-fest in a bottle.  This has minerals on minerals on minerals and is never shy on the acid. Although Paul is known for his sublime Sylvaners inside of Germany, the people in the know say the Rieslings are the big secret/surprise here; they are among the best in Germany. Yes, you heard me. It's like yes DRC is known for Pinot Noir but you going to turn down the Chardonnay if it passes your way? There is, eventually, incredible fruit in this wine, but that comes out after a heavy decant or a day or two open or 5 years in the cellar. This is a wine about freshness, minerality and acidity perfectly executed. It has fierce acidity, which I love, and dense packed minerals in between all that intense acidity. But it is so fresh, so juicy, just so alive, it captures your imagination. It is so long on the palate as to not be believed.  It is medium bodied and the minerality and is at once smokey and at once salty. The 2017 full-bodied fruit turbo boost helps this wine so much as the concentration and fruit quality are first rate!


These wines are also, perhaps the "Fassiest" wines in this portfolio. They have very good acidity, amazing intensity (these are not light whites), huge dry extract, massive minerality, stunning purity, epic textures and are faithful to respective sites.  In short, the Wall of Flavor: when you drink them your palate is assaulted by a moving wall of fruit, minerality and aromatics that won't quit and lasts 30-45 seconds after you swallow.

2017 Paul Weltner Paul Weltner Iphofer Julius Echter-Berg Sylvaner Erste Lage - $26.99 ($99.96 4-pack) (LIMITED)

2017 Paul Weltner  
Rodelseer Kuchenmeister
 Riesling Trocken Erste Lage - $26.99 ($99.96 4-pack) (LIMITED)
 

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