- The Father of the Bramaterra DOC
- Never Sold His Wines
- Didn't Want to Compete with Other Growers
- Organic and Natural Ahead of His Time
These Are Direct from the Cellar and in Pristine Condition
1990 Tenuta Monolo Gilodi Bramaterra Riserva
- Super Clean
- Gorgeous Violets Hints of Tea
- Iron, Graphite, Dark Chocolate
- Fresh and Dried Cherries
- Palate: Seamless and So Elegant
- Black tea, Leather
- Intense Minerality
- Finish: Long and Winding
- $51.99 is a STEAL not a DEAL
2000 Tenuta Monolo Gilodi Bramaterra Riserva
- Superb Clean Nose
- Incredible Depth of Vibrant Violets
- Dizzying Aromatics
- At Least 10-12 Years Ahead of It
- Super Detailed
- Insane Energy Depth
- Huge Leather and Violets
- Awesome Black Tea Tannin
- One of the Best 2000 Piedmont Wines I Have Ever Tasted
- $54.99 is SILLY For This Wine
Today is a very special offer that came about because of happenstance. During the early part of the pandemic it hit our friends in Italy very hard. I happened to be scrolling through Instagram and came across a post where a winery in Bramaterra I had never heard of would be selling some of their library wines with the proceeds going to pandemic relief. I was very impressed not only by the act of charity but also the breadth of vintages that were being offered. So of course I wrote the estate and little did I know I had stumbled across some history. The estate of Tenuta Monolo no longer produces wines and never sold wine when they were producing wine.
The Fascinating Story of Umberto Gilodi
Umberto Gilodi was an impresario of a man and had many interests. The Tenuta Monolo used to be part of a villa that contained endless volumes of books on philosophy, tons of manuscripts and classical music with an emphasis on Baroque and Renaissance music. The villa was surrounded by a vineyard that was three quarters of a hectare. Umberto Gilodi, the eccentric/impresario lived there with his life long friend, Orlando Cremonini who also was the cellarmaster, painter and an engraver. They lived a simple life similar to Louis Sozet in Cornas.
The farming at the estate was all organic and there are documents that attest to this. No herbicides or pesticides were ever used which is before organic was even a word or a thing. The wines are fermented in large wooden botti and fermented with native yeasts. The vineyards were planted with 60% Nebbiolo, 20% Croatina, 10% Vespolina and 10% Uva Rara. Umberto was so passionate about the wines and the area that he was the driving force behind creating the Bramaterra appellation which was finalized in 1979. He was affectionately referred to as the "Padre Di Bramaterra."
The reason Umberto decided to not sell the wines was because since he was the driving force behind creating the appellation, he thought it would be a conflict of interest with the other producers in the area.
The Wines
Today I have two divine aged bottles of the Tenuta Monolo Gilodi Bramaterra Riserva. Bramaterra Riserva has to be aged 24 months in barrel and 34 months in total. I tasted around 6 bottles of the old Bramaterra Riservas and these two were by far the top wines. 95 point wines in my book. No other estate in Bramaterra has even close to the amount of older vintages in pristine condition for sale. The wines as I learned vary wildly from vintage to vintage and are old school as it gets. The rustic charm that I love and I know many of you do as well. These are time capsules in a bottle. Wine made for the passion of it with no idea to ever sell them. A rare experience.
First up is the 1990 Tenuta Monolo Bramaterra Riserva for $51.99 a bottle on a 4-pack. This is a gorgeous wine. I love it. The color is a very elegant and clear garnet. Some hints of orange at the edges.
The nose needs maybe 5 minutes to get going. Then boy does it deliver. It's super clean with gorgeous violets, iron, graphite, dark chocolate and hints of tea and wonderful fresh and dried cherries. It sings. As it airs it becomes more and more fragrant to a dizzying level. The violets ramp up as does the iron and graphite. Almost a hint of yesteryear Bordeaux. What a nose. Soy, hoisin, stunning deep cherries, tar, leather, game, feral elements. Chestnuts and dust. So clean. What clarity. Mineral. Soupy cherries. Also Insane freshness and purity. Like the most fresh thing you can imagine smelling for a 21 year old wine.
The palate is seamless and so elegant. Black tea, leather and tons of those violets. Stinking energy and intensity and serious ripe tannins. Tons of tertiary and non fruit flavors. There is also an intense minerality that expresses itself via graphite and iron. Again, it reminds me of Bordeaux but has the weight of an old school Nebbiolo. It's so elegant and refined but also rustic and charming. Palate is so Fassy! Fresh as a daisy and so pure. Terrific energy and lovely clearly defined soppy cherry fruit. Long and such goof acid. This is so mature but can last 5-6 more years. Really balanced and engaging. The freshness is off the charts. Just an amazing wine at its apogee.
The finish is long and winding and has flavors of black tea, dried mid season cherries and leaves an impression of intense minerality. Balsamic notes develop with air. Elegant and very complex this is at peak Bramaterra Riserva and a very rare wine to get in this condition direct from the cellar.
Next up is the 2000 Tenuta Monolo Gilodi Bramaterra Riserva for $54.99 a bottle on a 4-pack. This is a brilliant wine that will turn heads. This has at least 10-12 years more ahead of it. It is so sick. This is between secondary and tertiary right now with also some primary thrown in there for good measure. The color is a slight garnet with a gorgeous transparency and unreal clarity. Hint of orange at the edges.
Superb clean nose with incredible depth of vibrant violets. Loads of iron, graphite, cocoa and lovely mid season slightly dried cherries. As it aerates the aromas become dizzying and there is a gorgeous and pure caramel. The nose is super detailed and has insane lift to it. It's super bright and has a wide spectrum of aromas. Younger and more lively than the 1990. Nose has the hoisin, soy thing but it seems more youthful than the 1990. Insane spice. So so good. Glorious spice, tar, leather and chestnut. There is major major umami on this nose. Layered, soupy and sappy also Groucho. And Harpo. A nose one can say is the epitome of Brameterra
The palate has insane energy and so much depth. Huge leather and violets with a serious background of delicious balsamic. Awesome black tea tannin. Juicy and concentrated with mind bending complexity. Insane freshness and purity. Like the most fresh thing you can imagine for a 21 year old wine. This is teeming with energy and freshness and just wow. This is the old person who can still run a 40 yard sprint and still compete with people 20 years their younger. Insanely insanely comlplex and the balance is just perfect. Has 10 years ahead of it. Wowsers. What a gorgeous wine. 1990 finish is longer but this is more complex. This easily has ten years ahead of it. It tastes younger than a 2005. This needs to be opened 5-6 hours before and needs a decant as this drops some sediment. One of the best 2000 Piedmont wines I have ever tasted.
1990 Tenuta Monolo Gilodi Bramaterra Riserva - $53.99
($207.96 4-pack) (LIMITED)
2000 Tenuta Monolo Gilodi Bramaterra Riserva - $56.99
($219.96 4-pack) (LIMITED)
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