- 97 Points (Pigott)
- Very Special Micro Parcel within Krover Kirchlay
- One of Müllen's Top Wines
- Creates Insane Dry Wines
- Wines of Uncommon Depth and Liveliness
- Nose: Smells like a Fruity Auslese
- Citrus Oil, Tangerine Oil
- Creaminess, Super Confectionary
- Green Tea and Unreal Minerals
- Citrus, Kumquat, Tangelo
- Palate: So Refined and Delicate
- Assaults Your Palate with Citrus, Lime Zest
- Some Apricot
- Intense, Rocky and Stoney Minerality
- Insane Inner Mouth Perfume
- Incredible Purity and Balance
- Genius Wine
"Before you can take in all other dimensions of this unique dry riesling, the smell of gardenias almost bowls you over. However, then comes a wave of floral honey and oolong tea, followed by another wave of intensely mineral acidity at the super long and super silky finish. Such an uplifting wine! Drink or hold. " - 97 Points, Stuart Pigott
You Can Never Have Enough Martin Müllen in Your Cellar - This Is The Wine to Buy!!!
Why can you never have enough Martin Müllen in your cellar?
1) The wines are always great (see the sidebar for the reason why).
2) They go so well with food, Müllen is almost always going to be a top 5 choice for any non red meat dish.
3) You will drink as much as you have pretty quickly and run out.
Today - we have a perfect storm.
- The best dry wine of a vintage of a century by one of the top producers in Germany.
- And I have a ton of it, for some reason (COVID).
- And the price is very low (direct from the estate, it's German wine).
- And this wine will age well for DECADES.
I'm offerng case pricing because this is an elite wine and inexpensive enough to drink every day. Honestly, I should offer pallet pricing.
The 2019 Vintage in Germany
I've tasted so many 19s at this point and it is easily the best vintage I've tasted since 2001. It's really not a contest. The energy and acidity make it a star. There are endless deep oceans of mid palate exuberance as well that really is the trademark of the vintage. Don't buy too little as you will regret it. This is truly a once in 20 year vintage.
In 2019 he made very few dry wines but what he did make is magic. Usually the top dry wines are from Huhnerberg but in 2020 they were all from Krov and his various holdings there. Martin makes what the vintage gives him (see sidebar).
The Wines
Today I've got a stunning Trocken wine - the top dry wine Martin made in 2019 that also got 97 points by Stuart Pigott. Martin absolutely destroyed 19 and made a stunning collection that is unparalleled in my experience. To make masterful dry wine, sweet wines, off dry wines and nobly sweet in one vintage is just beyond my comprehension. But Martin did it.
The Good and the Bad of the Müllen Approach
Martin Müllen always lets the vintage dictate what his wine breakdown will be. This is great because he never forces a wine to be dry or sweet because of market demand. This is one of the reasons that I've never had a bottle of Müllen that wasn't at least very good. And great is really the baseline for his wines.
The bad news is that in some years, there is not a lot of wine in a particular category.
Up first is the 2019 Martin Müllen "Nostel" Riesling Trocken *** for $36.99 a bottle on a 4-pack and $34.99 on a 12 bottle case.
What is Nostern? It's a very special small parcel within the Krover Kirchlay that is south facing and has a particularly warm climate. The slate is blue grey and is beautiful looking. Nights sometimes can be cool and the days are very warm which results in wines that have dynamic energy and tension. This vineyard despite being young creates insane dry wines and noble sweet wines and is another fine micro parcel from Müllen in the same genre as the great Huhnerberg 3te. This is a site that yields wines of uncommon depth and liveliness.
This is a startling wine.
Nose smells like a fruity Auslese. But this wine is bone dry. Nose has creaminess, citrus, kumquat, tangelo, green tea and unreal minerals. I mean just sweeping, epic, minerals. So clean. Clarity is 9.9 here. Just amazing. Wow! Insanely complex nose that is super confectionary. Citrus oil, tangerine oil, so so vivid. Unreal. Sick sick. 9.8 nose.
Wow what a palate. So refined and delicate and has super rock candy confectionary citrus. What insane inner mouth perfume here. Just incredible purity and balance then the finish gets super pithy with all types of ripe citrus accented by swarming minerality. This is super elegant but also big boned at the same time and also super skeletal. Wow what flow this wine has then gets super pithy and grippy on the finish just assaulting your palate with citrus, lime zest and intense, rocky and stoney minerality. Wow. Incredible structure as well. This has 20+ years ahead of it and I cannot wait see where this is in an hour. Brilliant. Epic. Genius! After 2 hours this is bananas. A brilliant wine. Drink now or hold for 5 years. Will last 20+. On Day 2 the nose is super tropical and pure but also has racy citrus and lime. Apricot and a vivid creaminess. Wow the palate is super lime/citrus/apricot and so so compact and structured. Long and sappy. Wonderful. A genius wine. Below is the 97 point Stuart Piggot review.
"Before you can take in all other dimensions of this unique dry riesling, the smell of gardenias almost bowls you over. However, then comes a wave of floral honey and oolong tea, followed by another wave of intensely mineral acidity at the super long and super silky finish. Such an uplifting wine! Drink or hold. " - 97 Points, Stuart Pigott
2019 Martin Müllen "Nostel" Riesling Trocken *** - $38.99 ($147.96 4-Pack, $419.88 12 bottle Case {$34.99!})

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