Wednesday, February 2, 2022

Kuhling Gillot Pettenhal - One of the Great Vineyards of Germany - 96 Points

 Kuhling-Gillot
 - The Sister Winery of List Favorite Battenfeld Spanier
 - The Diamond of Nierstein
 - I've Always Thought that They Were At the Top of the Top in Germany
 - And One of the Top Wineries in Europe
 - Now The Critics Have Agreed
 - Demand Already Exceeds Supply for These Wines At These Prices
 - And the Reviews Just Came Out

2020 Vintage
- Incredible Growing Conditions
- So Far from My Tastings, the Quality Is Off the Chart
- Sadly Small Quantities
- Nothing to Do But Work the Vines
- Classic - But with an Extra Density and Elegance

2020 Kühling-Gillot Nierstein Pettenthal Riesling GG
- 96 Points from Stuart Piggott
- $59.99 each on a 3 Pack. 
- Compare Keller 2019 Pettenthal at $1,299
- More Price Comparisons Below
- A Legendary Vineyard in Germany
- Due South of Nackenheim Rothenberg

- "In spite of the imposing structure, this is a very focused wine that has tremendous mineral freshness at the spectacularly bright, lemony finish." (SP)

The Back Story
I have been selling the wines of H.O. and Carolin Spanier since May 20, 2013. I tasted the wines of both
of their wineries in the summer of 2012 and started selling their Battenfeld Spanier wines the following spring. They have been among our most popular wines ever since.  

Love's Labor Not Lost

I wanted very, very much to sell their Kuhling Gillot wines as well but they were represented by another importer. So I was left to pine away for them for 7 and a half years until they miraculously became available just recently. Excited did not describe my state when I found out. I was literally jumping up and down.  

I knew from my first tasting in 2012 that these were destined to be among the elite wines of Europe. They have always been recognized as among the top 5 for whites in Germany but until you get that critical recognition, you are not top of the heap.  

Japanese Six Sigma to the Max
For the 9 years I have known the Spaniers, they have worked their tails off to get here. When you meet them, they have that German gentility that makes it seem like they are just relaxed and happy all day long. But I have had a bit to drink with them and I know that they have had a relentless pursuit of quality that has enabled them to get to this day. H.O. is continually evaluating everything he does from the microbes in the vineyards to how he bottles the wines. Every single year, they do something different to improve quality by a smidgeon. More work in the vineyards. Better precision in the cellar.

They have always had very good scores and every year, I told them that the scores were good but that their wines were underrated. And every year, they thanked me for my belief in them. I am so glad and so happy for them that their hard work has finally paid off.

Doing the Math - Price Comparisons

I never suggest to anyone that they buy wine as an investment. It's just not how I think about wine. But I know that some people either look at it as an investment or at least want context as to value when they make a purchase like this.

I am picking wines from highly regarded vintages and listing current ones.

2009 Keller Absterde - $1,200
2009 Keller Morstein - $675-$1,200
2018 Keller G-Max - $2,295
2018 Keller Pettenthal - $1,299

My point is that if a winery gets 96+ scores, it jumps into a very different price stratosphere. I have zero idea what will happen to prices for these wines. I've long felt that the wines from top German growers were tremendously underpriced. And for Keller, that market imbalance appears to have been rectified.  

2020 Kühling-Gillot Nierstein Pettenthal Riesling GG - $59.99 on a 4-Pack

Pettenthal is one of the most famous vineyards in Germany. It is actually due south of Nackenheim Rothenberg. This has 70 degree slopes at the top and also has red soils. I have been pining like crazy to sell this wine for 8 long years.  

I just found out I have to sell this today like an hour ago so I am going to rely on Stuart Piggot’s Review in the interest of expediency as I have not tasted it and likely won't get a chance.

“Once the touch of funk from long sur-lie maturation blows off, a lovely nose of lemon curd, yellow grapefruit and fresh pineapple unfolds. With more aeration, a touch of floral honey develops. In spite of the imposing structure, this is a very focused wine that has tremendous mineral freshness at the spectacularly bright, lemony finish. From organically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but best from 2023.” -
96 Points Stuart Piggott

2020 Kühling-Gillot Nierstein Pettenthal Riesling GG - $61.99 ($239.96 4-Pack)

No comments:

Post a Comment