- I Only Have 72 Bottles
- Haunting, Deeply Penetrative Nose
- d’Angerville Like Elegance
- Minerals, Pulverized Rock Dust
- Black and Dark Red Cherries
- So Elegant and So Refined
- Confectionery but Restrained
- Palate - an Elegant Masterpiece of Balance and Drop Dead Purity
- Cherries Galore
- Super Precise and So Pretty
- Startlingly Pure and Fresh
2019 Domaine Rebourgeon Volnay 1er Cru “Les Brouillards”
- I Only Have 72 Bottles
- Gorgeous, Haunting Nose
- Flowers, Mid Season Red Cherry Fruit and Spices
- With Air, The Spice on the Nose Gets Deafening
- The Class and Character of 19 Fruit
- Earthy and Floral with Terrific Perfume
- Palate: So Ethereal and Lithe
- Wonderful Purity of Fruit
- Just Incredible and Engaging Freshness
- Lovely Tiny Berry Fruit Intensity
- A Fantastically Pure Bottle of Volnay 1er Cru
Whitehead and they are outrageous wines and values. While we focus on William’s Pommards, as that is the bulk of his production, he makes a small amount of Volnay. And in 2019, as I’ve mentioned before he has turned the corner and made the leap and that includes his brilliant Volnays. Boy did he crush it in Volnay in 2019.
Volnay needs to have a haunting ethereal quality in order to be effective and also a particular type of texture that is silky and seductive. And William nailed that in 2019. The kid now makes Volnay as good as he makes Pommard. I’m so happy I reserved some of both these wines.
Both wines today can be drunk young as they both are 1er Crus that are more focused on fruit than on structure. Of course they can age but that succulent, sappy, dark cherry 2019 fruit is in these wines in abundance.
Up first is the 2019 Domaine Rebourgeon Volnay 1er Cru Carelles Sous La Chapelle for $52.99 a bottle on a 4-pack. I only have 72 bottles but man is this a beauty. This is the most delicate and lithe Volnay 1er cru and this version tastes like heaven and has an ethereal gossamer like texture. It’s directly below the great 1er Cru “Bousse d’Or” and can be drunk down with aplomb but ideally will be best in 4-5 years. This is as good a Volnay as I’ve had in 2019 and is easily the best Volnay William has made.
Haunting, deeply penetrative nose of minerals, pulverized rock dust, black and dark red cherries that are so elegant and so refined you’d think you’re drinking d’Angerville. Amazing scent of the best bubblegum ever but so subtle and refined. Confectionery but showing ultimate restraint. Beautiful. A work of aromatic art. On day 2 it got better. Hugely mineral nose and just stunning depth. So stoney. Black cherry and such depth. Wow this is super precise and so pretty.
Wow is that palate just an elegant masterpiece of balance and drop dead purity. This is so close to Brisset it’s not funny. Wow is this a divine bottle of Volnay. It’s so fine, so delicate and so refined. This is liquid silk. Cherries galore but the restraint here for how awesome and perfect this is is what keeps one coming back. An absolute masterpiece. On day 2, sappy black and red cherry fruit. Fresh and elegant. Startlingly pure and fresh. Terrific inner mouth aromas. Unreal sweetness and balance. A knockout. Just genius. Best Volnay I’ve ever had from young William and $52.99! What????!!
Up next is the 2019 Domaine Rebourgeon Volnay 1er Cru “Les Brouillards” for $49.99 a bottle on a 4-pack. This sits below the great 1er Cru “Les Mitans.” This is a super accessible wine and is a triumph in 2019. The goods. This is the goods.
Gorgeous, haunting nose of flowers, mid season red cherry fruit and spices. This is decidedly red fruited and super pure. Love all the spice, mint and wild herb topnotes as well. As it airs the spice on the nose gets deafening. This is something. Also a meaty element to the nose and the finish here. On day 2 it went from strength to strength! Nose is sweet cherry fruit, spice and shows the class and character of 19 fruit. Earthy and floral with terrific perfume. So complex. Reply penetrating.
Palate is so ethereal and lithe with wonderful purity of fruit and just incredible and engaging freshness. Delicate and slate-like tannins and just super juicy and pure. Really well balanced and just a complete package here. So juicy with lovely tiny berry fruit intensity and a slippery feeling. It slips and slides in one’s palate. Very very special. Stupid good balance and lovely structure that will ensure 10+ years and surely longer. A fantastically pure bottle of Volnay 1er Cru. On day 2, balanced and pure with terrific juiciness. Spice and mineral. Velvety and ripe tannins. Drink now through 2033 or so.
2019 Domaine Rebourgeon Volnay 1er Cru Carelles Sous La Chapelle - $54.99 ($211.96 4-Pack)
2019 Domaine Rebourgeon Volnay 1er Cru “Les Brouillards” - $51.99
($199.96 4-Pack)
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