Sunday, June 18, 2023

The Brooding Bramaterras of Brusnengo

 Filippo Barni

 - Distinctive "Brooding" Style

 - Almost Pommardian Flavor-Wise (Less Brawny, More Elegant)

 - Darker Fruits, Complex Aromatics

 - A Major Middle of Nowhere Discovery

 - Only 330 Cases Made


2017 Filippo Barni Bramaterra

 - All Star Nose

 - Tar, Leather, Smoke

 - Mid Season Cherries, Unreal Bruised Cherries

 - So Layered

 - Sous Bois

 - Palate: Sick Cherries

- Sexy Texture

- Caresses the Palate

- Almost a Sensual Cling

 - So Taut and Deep

 - Complex, Structured and So Old School

 - Will Age for 25+ Years and Peak in 5


2013 Filippo Barni Cantagnal Erbaluce Apassiemento Autumnal

 - One of the Most Special Wines I've Ever Sold from Italy

 - I Think That Italy Is #2 Behind Germany for Dessert Wines

 - This Wine Reminds Me a Bit of Aged Riesling

 - Crazy High Acidity and Freshness

 - A Vinous Treasure

 - Nose: So Complex

 - Dried Apricots, Sea Breeze, Orange Zest, Jellied Orange Citrus Flesh

 - Amazing Detailed Nuttiness

 - White Raisins, Golden Raisins

 - Caramel That is so Elite and Expansive

 - Palate: A Wow

 - So Rich and Decadent

 - Apricot, Grilled Nuts, Citrus Jelly

 - Superbly Mineral and Complex

 - Burnt Orange Rind

 - Fascinating Minerals

 - Spectacular and so, so Juicy

 - Gorgeous Mouthfeel and Texture


"These wines compete with very good Barolo quality-wise" - One of my most experienced and knowledgeable customers 


When I was tasting these wines, the word that kept on going through my mind was "brooding."
And when I think of brooding, my mind naturally turns to the Prince of Denmark. I'm not saying that I contemplated my existence while drinking these wines. Well, not any more than I usually do. But there is a fascinating character to them. Almost introspective in a way. And they are not exactly glou glou wines. Many of our Alto Piemonte wines have that bright cherry fruit with uplifting spice. 


These are at the other end of the spectrum. Deep. A bit dark. Very complex in a way that captures the attention. And maybe leads you to contemplate your existence.


There has definitely been a gold rush in Alto Piemonte but it hasn't quite reached every little town. And it didn't reach the 2,127 population commune of Brusnengo until my partner, in one of his insomniac late night data scrapes found Fillippo Barni and got them to send me samples.


They only make 330 cases of wine a year and are likely too small for pretty much anyone but us. And they don't market much so the prices are, let me say, more than fair. I could have charged 30% more and they would still be great deals. Maybe even more than that. It is very rare to find wines with this kind of complexity these days. 


The Wines

Up first is the 2017 Filippo Barni Bramaterra for $29.99 each on a 4-pack. Nope. Not a typo. They sent me two bottles and each one was spectacular. Why are these wines this good? I'm sure they work hard in the vineyard and are hands off in the winery but there's something extra here. There's a sense of refinement one does not get that often in Alto Piemonte. And at the price of $29.99 a bottle I don't think one gets it anywhere in the world of wine really.


What a nose. An all star nose. Heaven. Tar, leather, smoke, mid season cherries and so layered. Sick nose. Sous bois. Unreal bruised cherries. Mint. Menthol. So so, so high toned and expansive. Cough drop. Just sick. A 9.5 nose. Easy. On Day 2 it didn't let up. Sick, sick nose. Haunting. Ethereal. Like a Volnay/Bramaterra cross. Wow. Spices and cherry and well but also sick nuance and other stuff.


Palate is incredibleConcentrated. Sappy and so pure. Velvety tannins, and sweet earthy fruit. Barely sweet though. Deep, super deep. Amazing mid palate with a tiny bit of opulence and such sap and purity. Such sick cherries. The fruit is so taut and deep. Complex, structured and so old school.


Long finish and refined tannins cake to the mouth. Long. Pure. Fresh. Sweet deep fruit. This is astonishing. Incredible density and yet light on its feet. This is one of the best Bramaterras I've ever had. On day 2, palate is crazy. Like crazy juicy with sick tannins and ripeness but so classic. Man this is impressive. Awesome texture. High quality refined tannins and some vivid, sappy dark cherry fruit on the finish. Long. Better in 5-7 years. Maybe more. Vin de garde. What a finish. Will age for 25+ years and peak in 5 and will last and last.


The 2013 Filippo Barni Cantagnal Erbaluce Apassiemento Autumnal for $36.99 (500ml bottle) each on a per 3 pack is a vinous treasure that is why you shop at Fass Selections. Claudia, being a mesnch also sent me the 08/05/03 to compare to the 12 and 13 to see how this wine ages and man does it age. It ages wonderfully and gets fresher, leaner and infinitely more complex and nimble


What a noseDried apricots, sea breeze, orange zest, jellied orange citrus flesh. Amazing detailed nuttiness. So complex. Wow! Is that soy? Yes it is. Hoisin as well. I can't place the nuts but they are so brilliantly realized. I swear there is a Chinese food thing going on in the nose here but it works! 


On the palate, wow. Rich. Decadent. Not shy. Amazing texture. Just great acidity and so long. Flavors of apricot, grilled nuts, citrus jelly, and superbly mineral and complex. So airy in the finish with bits of caramel and charred orange rind. Viscous but also fresh and textured. Gets longer as it airs out. 


Day 2 notes are very important with dessert wines as they lose nothing and only get better and fresher as was the case here. 


White raisins. Golden raisins. Caramel that is so elite and expansive. Grilled nutsBurnt orange rind. And fascinating minerals that really put this in a class by itself. Wow this is spectacular and so so juicy. Just incredible freshness, yet rich and so beautiful. It has such intense flavors but also it has the balance and depth of the best sweet wines I have ever had . What mouthfeel and texture. Insane inner mouth aromas and caramel that is to die for. It has the sphere and orb in a sweet wine. Amazing! This will last 25 more years! Amazing!


2017 Filippo Barni Bramaterra - $31.99 ($119.96 4-pack)

 (VERY LIMITED)

 

 2013 Filippo Barni Cantagnal Erbaluce Apassiemento Autumnal - $38.99 ($110.97 3-pack {500 ml})  (VERY LIMITED)

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