Wednesday, February 21, 2007

My Trip to Germany redux : Pt IV - Mosel with Bert Selbach of Dr. F. Weins Prum


Arrived at Bert Selbach's house after the great tasting at Theo's and was very excited to get to Wehlen. Wehlen is a very sleepy town that was extremeley overcast when we got there. This overcasteness eventually turned to pouring rain but I managed to get some great brooding shots of Wehlener Sonnenhur and then some brighter shots as the rain cleared up. Bert lives right next to Manfred Prum. Little did I know I would be on this little strip of heaven from 6 pm to around 1 in the morning. Well that's Manfred Prum's fault. But more on that later.

Bert Selbach of Dr. F. Weins Prum is a very quiet man but he really does not need to say much as his wines do the talking. In the Mosel this was the biggest eye opener of the trip. Spectacular wines of shimmering purity and tremendous minerality. Probably earlier drinkers than JJ but just spectacular wines that I need to focus on more. His set of Auslesen in '05 were absolutely stunning. I love these wines and need to buy some for my cellar. Also of note is the 1920's retro style of Bert's house. Pictures below



'04 Graacher Dombprost Kabinett - Ripe, honeyed nose with loads of tangerine and citrus. Very fruity with a nice delicate mineral background. Lovely and easy-going pure Kabinett.

'04 Graacher Domprobst Spatlese - Very citrusy nose with hints of peach flesh and cookie dough. Concentrated pure and ripe with zingy acids and great fleshy fruit on the palate. Not too complex but very well executed.

'04 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spatlese - There's something about drinking WS Spatese with Sonnenuhr right out the window that just feels right. Spectacularly slatey nose with loads of fresh lime and a lively, jumpy palate. Juicy wine with ripe acids and loads of fruit. Great Sonnenuhr. The best of the '04 trio.

'05 Estate Riesling - This is Halbrocken. Apple blossoms, chalk and slate on the nose with a sleek, ripe mineral palate. Very chalky finish. Solid, spine-tingling estate Riesling. Just a quick note......the estate rieslings from the Mosel/Saar/Ruwer in '05 were absolutely spectacular bargains. Every single one I tasted had tremendous charcacter and seem like they have the perfect tension of sweet and sugar. Some are Halbtrocken and some are just straight QBA but all are highly reccomended. These definetly will be my everyday drinkers for tne next two to three years.

'05 Graacher Dombrost Spatlese Feinherb - The first of many Feinherbs I would taste and it is a welcome new category. Kind of between a Halbtrocken and a Kabinett. Wonderfully floral nose with dry, spicey notes and lots of slate. Just wonderful aromas here. Chalky intense palate with green apple fruit and complex spices. I really liked this.

'05 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett - This was a great Kab. Loads of floral, red fruit aromas with a nice slab of slate thrown in for good measure. Very appley palate with zingy aggresive acids (just like I like 'em) and nectarine flesh. Long finish with a great interplay betwen mineral and red/blue fruits. Wonderful finesse here.

'05 Graacher Himmelreich Spatlese - Mineral nose with accents of fresh meadow and beach. Unique nose and very different than the Sonnenhur and Domprobst bottlings before. A stunningly mineral and dense palate with great finesse. A real showstopper.

'05 Wehlener Sonnenhur Spatlese - Apples drenched in a mineral bath woth tangerne juice dripping on top. A serious in your face nose. Gorgeously ripe palate with tremendous ripeness and density. Fleshy finish of nectarine stays with you. Just a delight to taste.



'05 Graacher Himmelreich Auslese - Nose is a bit closed here with tons of floral elements and some slate. Also hints of green apple skins. Tremendous depth of flavor with honeyed ripe apples and great acids. Mouthwatering Auslese and on the drier side of Auslese due to the very high minerality on the palate. Again pure and delicious.

'05 Graacher Dombrobst Auslese - Very high-toned floral and mineral nose with incredible ripeness and density on the palate. Like a creamed corn apple sandwich with very ripe corn and apples. Just a very hedonistic wine with lots of juicy fruit and wonderfully clean botrytis. Very balanced and fine.

'05 Wehlener Sonnenhur Auslese - Nose of cranberry and other red fruits. Concentrated, dense and ripe with clean botrytis running through and juicy acids. A bit yoing on the palate but fleshy, ripe and delicious. A common theme among Bert Selbach's '05's is the sheer drinkability of them all. I did not want to spit any of them out.



'05 Erdener Pralat Auslese - Floral nose with peaches and some cream elements. Fantasic complexity and ripeness. Long palate with great acids. Seemed a bit backwards too but no shortage of material here. Lovely finish.

'05 Wehlener Sonnenhur Berenauslese - Crazy nose of foie gras, savory, floral elements and candied apples. Very botrytized but again that clean '05 botrytis. Incredibly concentrated, dense and long with just insane complexity. Wowsers!

'04 Graacher Dombrost LGK (Auction) - Just a kalediscopic nose of lemon, starfruit, apples, slate and dense minerals. Palate just pushes down with serious urgency and great concentration but manges to remain finessed and almost dances on your tatse buds. A brilliant wine.

'92 Wehlener Sonnenuhr LGK (Auction) - Incredible nose of petrol, honey, beeswax. Smells like a BA or TBA. Concentrated and ripe with dense cherry fruit and some mature notes on the palate. Not young nor old but middle aged. After aeration complex notes of saffron and white pepper develop. Astounding wine. I would love to have some 1/2's of these in the cellar for a Tuesday night.

A great tasting and Bert's '05's are showstopers and very fairly priced. Tremendous wines from a humble man.

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