Tuesday, March 13, 2007

The Bocksbeutel as beverage dispenser . . . '05 Hans Wirsching Julius EchterBerg Grosses Gewachs


What a crazy wine. It's the one with the gold capsule in the back pictured above. When I tasted it at the estate this summer it was amazing albeit a bit angry and dark. Kind of like Sartre in a bottle. There was beauty but it was not obvious. Now flash forward to last night. Beautiful nose that you can only really get out of Franconia. Roasted root vegetables, celeriac, pistachio, cassis, white flowers, fennel and other complex notes of savory. The nose is very savory but not in a meaty way but more of an earthy vegetable way. Compelling and unique aromatics. I was thrilled by this nose and really could not believe just the stark originality of the aromas. The palate also played to a different drumbeat. Oily and rich yet with shrieking acids. Think Munch The Scream. Very refined yet savage at the same time. The acids are tense but chewy and stay on your tongue like a red wine's tannin. Just brilliant. Amazing concentration and epic length along with a chalky, limey, celery thing on the finish that just stays with you. Ah . . .leave in cellar for 20 years or decant for 24-48 hours. Thank goodness for Franconia and Wirsching.

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