Recent Rieslings

I love German Riesling which is really no secret. Each one I drink I feel I learn something more and get a greater grasp of the complexity that is German Riesling and German wine in general. So here are the latest learning experiences.

Up first was a lovely bottle of the 2006 Reichsgraf Von Kesselstat Scharzhofberger Kabinett Feinherb. When I visited the estate this past summer I tasted a ton of wines not brought in by their official importer. Well that did not go well in my book so I made it happen and ordered my four favorite with this being very high up on that list. They finally arrived a week ago and like a little kid getting the latest Grand Theft Auto I grabbed one and took it home. This was a wine all about nuance and finesse. It had classic Scharzhofberger aromas of lime, grapefruit (pink?), chalk, minerals and some stone pit fruit flesh. The palate was wonderfully elegant and finessed with lovely citrus and pit fruits. Very mineral though. There was sap and an uncanny precision. Beautifully focused wine that you need to pay attention to or it will pass you by. Really needs a day to open up but is worth the wait.

Next was a bottle of the 2006 Becker Riesling "Laissez-Faire." This estate is very famous in Germany for their wonderful Spatburgunders but they also make killer Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder) and Riesling. Their vineyards are located in Schweigen which straddles the Pfalz/Alsace border and actually half their vineyards are in Alsace. This is a wild yeast fermented Riesling and is an exceptional pure and very clean wine. Lovely opulence that is expected from the Pfalz but also nice acidity and great purity. The fruit is more on the apricot/peach side. The minerality is present but this is a wine about fruit, and exuberant fruit at that.