
Every time I would go out to dinner with a German winemaker from the Mosel, they would always order wine from the same estate. That estate is Martin Muellen. The wines were stupendous and this became such a pattern that I did some research and to my delight, discovered that Martin Muellen wines had not yet been exported to America. Martin Muellen makes powerful, age-worthy, intense and very mineral wines in the Lower Mosel near Traban-Tarbach.
Drinking aged German Riesling is a completely different experience from drinking it young. The problem is that old German offers are few and far between and one usually pays 2-4 times the price of a current release, making them affordable only for a select few. I am thrilled to be offering two perfectly mature, beautifully crafted wines for roughly the price of newly released Mosel wines. These are affordable enough to drink every night and their age makes them perfect to bring to a wine dinner. If you haven't had aged Mosel riesling, at this price point, it's time to dip your toe in the deep end.
The first wine is the 1997 Krover Paradies Spatlese Halbtrocken for $24.99. It actually goes down to $137.94 on the 6 pack. What can I say about this wine? It is perfectly mature and with gorgeous fruit that is kept fresh by Mullen's wonderful acid balance. Were it not for the complex aromatics unique to aged Mosel Riesling, one could think that it is a much younger wine. It had the perfect young/old thing that 15 year old Mosel wine can have.
The second wine is a glorious Kabinett from one of the Mosel's most underrated vineyards, the Kinheimer Rosenberg. This is a classically fruity Mosel wine that is drinking great now. 2002, in general, has entered its window of maturity for dry, Kabinett and Spatlese from what I have tasted over the past 6-12 months. The 2002 Kinheimer Rosenberg Riesling Kabinett can be had for $19.99 a bottle and $113.94 on the 6-pack.
Martin's wines can be difficult young in that the acid and mineral sometimes dominate, but any taster can tell you the goods are there. His '11's are perhaps some of the greatest wines of the vintage, but If I have the opportunity to offer mature Mosel Riesling I will do it. Especially with Martin's wines as you need to taste an old one before you taste a young one. Both wines are stunning and at their peak maturity or entering their peak maturity.
Krov is a town in the Mosel that gets overlooked (many negociants and growers not concerned with quality sullied Krov's reputation) but the Krover Paradies is a terrific vineyard that is extremely stoney and Martin Muellen easily makes the best wines from this great site. The 1997 Krover Paradies Spatlese Halbtrocken has a touch of creaminess on the palate, exotic spice on the nose and that is integrated perfectly on the palate with exotically ripe apricot and gooseberry fruit flavors. Stunning aromas develop that get more and more nuanced as the wine aerates. For $25 a bottle this is a crazy value. You don't often find off-dry perfectly mature German Riesling at all, and definitely not for the price being asked today.
The 2002 Kinheimer Rosenberg Kabinett harkens back to another era when Kabinett was Kabinett and not Spatlese dressed up in Kabinett clothing. This wine hails from another underrated village near Erden, called Kinheim. The character of wines from Kinheim is always of freshness. The site provides excellent buffering acidity. Loads of peach and spice flavprs on this one and a multidimensional palate. What a finish as well. Very pithy fruit that ends with a mineral/pith battle where your palate is the winner.
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