vineyard was formerly Grand Cru but was downgraded to Premier Cru when the wines suffered from poor winemaking. The new winemaker, Benigne Joliet, who bought out his family members, is an absolute perfectionist, easily the best winemaker in Fixin, making stunning, stunning vinous works of art and this wine is from the incredible 2012 vintage. This is a vintage that you need to buy stuff as soon as it is offered because it will dissapear.
The 2012 Joliet 1er Cru Fixin Clos de la Perriere which can be had for as little as $69.99 on the 3-pack, is the real deal. Describing the 2012 Fixin 1er Cru Clos de la Perriere is one of the harder things I have had to do. Not because of the quality, but because it is that damn good and I want to do it justice. I am happy to offer one of the most profound white burgundy values I have ever tasted. Bar none. The Grand Cru I find it has the most in common with is Corton-Charlemagne. It pulls off the same type of high-wire act that Corton-Charlemagne so deftly pulls off. It has the elegance and finesse of Corton-Charlemagne, the power and concentration without being heavy at all, the unique flavors of iodine and hazelnut, the freshness and the beautiful, almost sweet minerality. The finish is so compelling and long. Mineral, juicy, with amazing framing acid. The difference for me, between 1er Cru and Grand Cru quality is two things. The vivid detail of all the components and the highest level of finesse/ elegance allied with power, concentration and the length. This wine has it. The Fixin Clos de la Perriere was considered and ranked a Grand Cru 100 years ago and Benigne is applying for it to be renamed a Grand Cru. The quality is there and now all he needs is the name on the bottle and the classification system. For under $75 you are getting the best bang for your buck in high quality "Grand Cru" white Burgundy.
These are the most expensive Fixin's that I've seen in France by far bit the quality justifies it. Forget what you know about Fixin and enter a new vinous paradigm. The red version of this wine is over $100 at a famous retailer.
There is a lot more to to the Clos de la Perriere than just the idea that is a monopole and that it is 1er Cru. This is one of the great sites of Burgundy and with the uncompromising Benigne Joliet at the head making all the decisions, the estate has never been in more capable hands. The man is obsessed with quality, which is probably why we get along so well. I visited Benigne on a very rainy, typical Burgundian day in February. He lives in a castle, on a hill, next to the great monopole, Fixin "Clos de la Perriere." One of those places that has to be seen to be believed. It is stunningly beautiful.
Below is some history from the 1st e-mail on the 2011 red.
The Fixin 1er Cru "Clos de la Perriere" used to be mentioned in the same breath as the great Grand Crus of the Cote de Nuits (e.g. Chambolle, Morey and Vosne). But the vineyard is a Domaine Joliet monopole and decades ago the estate went into a qualitative downward spiral, harming its reputation. With the resurgence in quality under Benigne Joliet, they are producing Grand Cru quality wines again.
Benigne's family has owned this incredible monopole site for six generations and is leading a profound resurgence in quality. Fixin is next to Brochon which is next to Gevrey (a total of 2 miles down the road). The Clos de la Perriere sits atop a hill and the old cellars which date back to 1142 must be seen to be believed. I have been extremely lucky to visit many beautiful places during my career in the wine business and the Clos de la Perriere has to be in the top 3 or 5. Just gorgeous. One of those places you are in awe of but at the same time makes you feel incredibly alive. The vaulted cuverie still has an original press in it that was last used in 1959.
2012 Joliet Fixin Blanc 1er Cru "Clos de la Perriere - $74.99
($209.97 3-pack)
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