Saturday, March 29, 2014

Longtime Grower's Third Vintage Under Their Name: Stunning Value Before this Newcomer Becomes Well Known

It was a crisp day in Tain l'Hermitage at the Salon des Vins and I was sulking. I had just tasted the
brilliant Cornas of Guillhaume Gilles and was bummed to find out he was represented by Neal Rosenthal. Oh well, you can't win them all.  I then asked Guillhaume who he thought the best talent in the room was and he immediately pointed to Michele Luyton; I headed over there in a flash. Michelle Luyton, is an absolute wonder. One of those people you meet, that charms you with her wit and warmth instantly. She was very humble in saying her English was not good, but it was fantastic. She was passionate and enthusiastic and most importantly the wines she makes are absolutely stunning and a wonderful entry into the mostly high-priced world of Hermitage.  While the Luytons have been planting grapes for 25 years, this is only their third year bottling wines under their name; they are still building a name for themselves and hence the wines are just incredibly cheap. Even for Fass Selections, this is an incredible steal.

Today I am proud to offer for the first time in the United States the 2011 Luyton "Hermitage" Rouge for as little as $44.99 on the 3-pack. For estate bottled red Hermitage, that is a stunning value. It is even more of a value as the wine is tremendous. Complex, chewy, meaty, deep and rugged like an old school Hermitage. Delas from the 80's comes to mind when I was tasting these. Yet, Michele Luyton also gets a stunning elegance and finesse to her Hermitage and yet it stays bloody, gamey and meaty as well. No sacrifice of structure at all as this will last 10-15 years easy.  It is delicate yet also gives off the vibe that this is a product of the earth.

There is not a better deal in Hermitage currently going.  To give the non-Hermitage lovers a comparison, Delas Hermitage goes for $75+, Sorrel at $70+ and Faurie for $100+.  This is a very small appellation and the wines are very much in demand.  Getting a great Hermitage at under $50 is really quite a find.  If you are a Syrah fan, I suggest you get some while the getting is good before Luyton's fame (and prices) catches up to her quality.

Michele also makes a wonderful white Hermitage. Before I get into this brilliant wine which can be had for as little as $44.99 on the 3-pack, I want to briefly discuss the two types of White Rhone wines out there. The first, which I will never sell at Fass Selections is the gloppy, sometimes oaky, rich, no acid, no balance, hot white Rhone wines. I tasted many at the Salon des Vins this past February in Hermitage. But what really rung my bell was the different style of white Rhone wine that seems to be developing. The style I like and have sold is the brisk, minerally, with opulence in the background style of white Rhone. The 2011 Luyton Hermitage Blanc is a textbook example of this new emerging style and it is about time. Lean, minerally, with tremendous waves of fruit and salinity. The concentration is remarkable as is the finesse and elegance. It is so lean, minerally and fresh I would be hard pressed to think it is white rhone. The finish lasts and lasts forever. So elegant and rich. Such a nice juxtaposition of texture and flavor. I fell in love pretty quickly with this as white Hermitage is way harder to pull off successfully than red Hermitage.

Michelle's father, 25 years ago, planted a small parcel with some Syrah vines but always sold to the Cave Tain l'Hermitage. He did this so he could eventually afford to buy vineyards in Hermitage. Michelle loves working outside so her time in the vineyards is a natural fit. As her father aged, she worked in the vineyards and continued to sell the grapes to the Cave Tain l'Hermitage and hired someone named Lionel to help her out. Lionel, though, secretly learned how to make wine at a neighbor. When Michelle found out she left him a vineyard in St. Joseph. Lionel made a brilliant wine and Michelle decided after tasting that wine she would no longer sell her grapes to the Co-op and vinify all of them herself. She had that a-ha moment which I am sure all of you have had with wine.

When it comes to the cultivation of the vines, she takes a hands off approach and will spray as little as possible. She has maximum respect for nature and is humbled by it. She definitely has a flower child, respect nature approach to her work and it really comes out in the wines. They are alive. She has a winemaker now, named Christophe, who guides her every step of the way. Christophe is all about respecting the balance of nature and it is again reflected in the wines which are supernally balanced. They glide across your palate but have major stuffing. Another iron fist in velvet glove type of wine.

2011 Michele Luyton Hermitage Rouge - $49.99 ($134.97 3-pack)

2011 Michele Luyton Hermitage Blanc- $49.99 ($134.97 3-pack) 

Mix and match on 3 bottles for best price

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