Saturday, March 22, 2014

March Madness or Corton Madness? I prefer the Corton Version!

With the NCAA tournament upon us I have decided to throw my hat in the ring and say Corton is the winner, especially at the prices I am offering today. I have VERY LITTLE wine today and I will have to allocate. These wines are so good that even one bottle, if that is what it comes to, will make anybody who buys these very happy.

I'll start with what I have a little bit of. The 2012 Corton from Jean-Jacques Girard is a profound bottle of Grand Cru Red Burgundy. Today, the 2012 Jean-Jacques Girard Corton Grand Cru can be had for as little as $63.99 on the 3-pack. Frankly, this is the best high end deal to be offered at Fass Selections, since the 2012 Domaine Girard Corton Charlemagne.   Corton is usually $100 and up.  Do not pass this up. 2012 Burgundy at the Grand Cru level is just insane. The volume in the mouth, the concentration, purity, rich velvety tannins and absolute clarity of site makes this the best vintage I have tasted young since 1999. Corton represents tremendous value even through 3-tiers so through Fass Selections $64 for Corton Grand Cru is a give-away. Many of you will be tasting your way through various '11's and 12's of Domaine Girard when they ship in April and you will see why I will have more of Girard in my cellar than any other Burgundy producer. Just classic wines, made in a traditional style with the utmost finesse. They just are super pretty and he does it in appellations that can be tough to make pretty. Corton, Pommard and Aloxe-Corton to name a few. His wines, for my palate, can be drunk from day 1 but will improve and improve for years to come. This has the necessary Corton tannins, but in 2012 they are just super special. Not much more to say than buy this wine at this price as this does not come around often.

Next up is one of the greatest stories I have heard yet in Burgundy. I have almostno wine so get rea

Remi Poisot
dy. Raise your hand if you have heard of Louis Latour. So, the story goes like this:
1) Marie Poisot, inherited her wine estate when her father Louis Latour died in 1902.
 - Louis, her brother, inherited the other half.  That other half is the hub of the eponymous Louis Latour estate.
2) Marie's vineyards were shared between her six children, including Pierre Poisot. The latter married Yvonne Misserey.
3) Three children were born of this marriage between 1932 and 1935: Maurice, Henri and France. Pierre was the head wine-grower at Louis Latour until he died in 1937. From 1902, Pierre's plots were farmed successively, under rental or sharecropping agreements, by Maison Louis Latour, Henri Poisot and Michel Voarick, prior to being taken back in 1986 by Maurice Poisot.
4) Maurice Poisot, married to Marie Louise Piguet, has five children. The third, Rémi, resumed cultivation in June 2010. Only Maurice's and France's plots remain of the original estate, Henri having sold his in 1990.

Enter Remi Poisot. He left Burgundy after high school at 18 and entered the navy and travelled the world as a decorated officer for 28 years. In 2009 he left the Navy to go back to Beaune and trained at the agricultural school there. He resumed cultivation and winemaking duties of the family vines in 2010. The estate is 3 hectares and he only has one 1er Cru and three Grand Cru's which is impossibly rare for an estate this small. The wines are brilliant. Like the great Louis Latour wines of the 60's. Incredibly pure fruit with also a lightness of touch, only found in the top estates in Burgundy and amazing freshness that Remi provides with his personal touch. These are not Louis Latour wines at all, they are Remi Poisot wines and he is a brilliant winemaker and so humble. The winemaking is very traditional with no tricks in the cellar. On to today's wines.

First a word about 2011's. To my surprise in, when I just travelled to Burgundy, I was shocked how great the 11's were. They have gained weight in the bottle and have more freshness and precision. They have gotten much much better. Crack some of yours and see if you agree.

I have the brilliant 2011 Remi Poisot Corton Charlemagne for $109.99 NET pricing as I have so little it is silly. This is just one of the best new Corton Charlemagne's I have ever tasted. Made in a traditional way, in an insanely beautiful finesse-driven style this hits your palate with waves of fruit on clouds of minerals. It is a haunting wine as the elegance is just insane, but also chock full of fruit and mineral. So gorgeous, so pretty, so delicate, so Corton-Charlemagne, which is perhaps my favorite Cote de Beaune Grand Cru. I don't want to talk it up too much but it is that good and I have so little.

I also have the 2011 Remi Poisot Corton Bressandes for $79.99 NET pricing as I only have so little it is even sillier. What can I say about this wine? The style here is so delicate and the wines are so true to their site I need to just give a dissertation on Corton-Bressandes so you have an idea. It reminds me of the Mugnier style here, in that the Mugnier style is that there really is no style, just the ideal expression of the site. Bressandes is very well drained as the soil is clay based with many small rocks. The wine has a beautiful structure when young with none of the harshness that sometimes come from Corton. It has super sweet fruit and the 11's have gained weight since July and this wine was firing on all cylinders. Velvety, ripe and sweet tannins that are dense but spread out nicely on the palate. There is some spice and musk after maximum aeration, but that is a hint of what I expect to be a spice bazaar as this ages. A tremendous bottle of Corton.

2012 Domaine Girard Corton Grand Cru $67.99 -
($191.97 3-pack) (Limited)

2011 Remi Poisot Corton-Charlemagne - $109.99 NET 
(Extremely Limited)

2011 Remi Poisot Corton Bressandes - $79.99 NET 
(Extremely Limited)

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