The 2013 Andreas Laible Riesling Durbacher Plauerlain "SL" which is short for Steinrassel, is an absolute wonder in 2013 and can be had for as little as $29.99 on a 6-pack, and yes, you want 6 of these and they will age gloriously. These wines, in my opinion will be some of the longest aging dry Rieslings in all of Germany. They have such a serious backbone and so much density and stuffing. 2013 was a short vintage but the quality is just exceptional. High acidity, beautiful clarity of flavor, exquisite balance and major backbones. Also unbelievable textures for dry Riesling. Like a pillow. While you can drink them now, these are for the long long haul (20 years plus). Snatch up 2013's when you can as they will be gone quickly. This drinks like $45-55 dollar bottle of dry Riesling. And it is so distinctive. And so mineral. No one has said they do not anything but love Laible from the first batch we shipped out over the Fall.
I have begged and begged Andreas and Petra for some Grossees Gewachs (German Grand Cru) wines and this year they finally relented because you bought so much last year. This is where you come for your GG values. The quality here is incredible and the precision that Andreas and Petra make their 2012 Durbacher Plauerlain Weissburgunder GG which can be had for as little as $33.99 a 4-pack has to be tasted to be believed. They make mind-numbingly spectacular Pinot Gris or Weissburgunder. Not this tricked-up, oaked to death Weissburgunder which is surprisingly common in Baden, but real, stony, mineral, tense Pinot Gris with pithy stone fruits, electric acidity and serious backbone for aging. The finish is sappy as all can be and intensely palate staining. I am so lucky to get some of this. This is limited so it will be allocated. Where else can you get a grand cru quality white wine for under $40?
Below us some background from earlier e-mails on Laible.
There are only a limited number of truly distinctive wineries using expert wine making technique in unique terroir to produce wines that are singular expressions of that terroir. When I opened Fass Selections, one of the main reasons I did it was to source and sell wines like this that I couldn't previously find in the United States.
The wines of Andreas Laible are wines that have the singularity that I love. They are also about as exclusive as they get in Germany. It's always nearly impossible to get your hands on the limited and allocated quantities of Laible in the States. The top wines are limited production and sell out fast. Most of the top level 2012's Rieslings are already allocated in Germany.
The great German producers (Lauer, JJ. Prum, Wittman, Battenfeld-Spanier, Immich-Battiereberg) are also dry/off-dry/sweet wines from Germany with distinction, in that when you are drinking them there is nothing else comparable. Distinct character, for me, is one of the hallmarks of the world's greatest wines. I would put the dry Rieslings of Andre Laible in that class.
There is such a sense of serenity in Laible's wines. Most people think of Baden as hot and also that Pinot rules down here. There are tons of Grauburgunder, Spatburgunder and Weissburgunder planted in Baden. Some good, some not. Riesling is not considered anything of consequence in Baden as it was deemed too hot by the cognoscenti. Most of Baden is sweltering and that is why they grow Pinot varieties. Enter the Ortenau and more specifically Durbach where the great Plauerlain vineyard resides. Laible's house is right in the middle of this very special site. The Ortenau is easily the coolest part of Baden and that is why Riesling thrives here.
The vineyards are like the wine version of Brigadoon; an almost hidden area, nestled by the Black Forest on one side and steep valleys which protect them from the wind. An absolutely unique microclimate in Baden. It is the definition of idyllic, with the winery at the bottom of a bowl of vineyards. Combine that protection with soils mainly composed of granite, gneiss and mottled sandstone (also quartzite and porphyry depending where you are) all which release the warmth of the sun. Ortenau could be in the Mosel minus the slate. The vineyards are steep. I've walked the vineyards with Andreas and it is steep on a par with the Mosel. So hot days, cool nights, rocky soils that absorb and release the sun and steep vineyards all produce an environment that is perfect for producing light, airy, mineral and elegant Rieslings. And no one can do it better than Andreas Laible. These are just inspiring wines that are dripping with class, breed and elegance. It is easily one of the top twenty estates in Germany.
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