Thursday, May 8, 2014

Burghound Speaks! - One of the Most Underrated Cote de Beaune Domaines; He Personally Cellars It

"I have said this before but it bears repeating: Philippe Billard runs what is one of the most under-rated domaines in the entire Côte de Beaune. The wines are old school but not especially rustic or austere and they are unapologetically built for long-term aging. I am often asked exactly which domaines do I put in my personal cellar; well, Billard is one of them." - Allen Meadows

This is the first time I have ever started an e-mail offer with a quote from a winecritic, but this is no ordinary wine critic, this is the Burghound, who is the be all end all on Burgundy. Everyone respects him, no one has an issue with his palate and he is universally respected. When Allen says something is great people listen because 99.99999% of the time it will be great. I totally agree with Allen on the brilliant and vastly underrated and underpriced wines of Billard-Gonet. Tasting with him again this February was amazing. The wines are super old school, so I know everyone on my list will love them, but not really rustic in the sense that Paul Chapelle is or other similar producers, but rustic in they are not so polished like Burgundy that they lack character. "Cindy Crawford mole" wine alert!! What makes Cindy so sexy is her mole. No mole, much less fame and sex appeal. With mole, the legend that is Cindy Crawford still grows. These are beautiful wines with a mole.

It is impossible to decide on what to offer from Billard-Gonet as they are all so good. So I go with something old and something new. Today I am thrilled to offer the 2008 Billard-Gonet Pommard 1er Cru "Rugiens Bas" for as little as $55.99 on the 4-pack. Out of the vintages of Rugiens Bas, Phillipe has in stock, this was the most accessible and most profound now. By no means is it a pop and pour but give this a heavy decant and this is an insanely deep, regal, super elegant and refined, intensely mineral and sappy bottle of Pommard Rugiens Bas. Of course it is tannic and structured as Rugiens Bas, for me, is the most structured of all the Pommard 1er Cru's. It is also the best. And that is not just my opinion, but the opinion of many a respected Burgundy critic, collector and drinkers. The wine after aerating for 30 minutes to an hour starts to display classic Rugiens forest floor, deep berry fruit and minerality plus the most insane elegance to balance all that good, meaty, earthy Pommard beastliness. The palate has so much sap and sweet fruit without losing its base of incredibly stony minerality. This is a profound wine. Not much else to say than that. I will have to allocate this as neccessary. Hopefully I'll have enough but as many of you know, that sometimes is not the case. This wine will age and age and age. I'd give it a 2017-2050 but can be drunk now with a heavy decant but with more bottle age....WOW! If you are interested, Allen Meadows gave this a 92.

Now I really have no idea how much I am getting of this next wine. He has some, but with all 2012's, I do not know how much I will get. Growers are being very choosy with 2012 because there is so little and the quality is so high so they want to spread it around. Best vintage I have ever tasted for red burgs. The Cote de Beaune is just nutso for quality in 2012. I tasted this and had to sell it as for the money and the appellation you will not find a better deal in 2012 Burgundy. I am thrilled to offer the 2012 Billard-Gonet Pommard 1er Cru Chaponnieres "Vieilles Vignes" for as little as $39.99 on the 4-pack. This wine is insanely good. It is $39.99, is a 1er Cru from one of the most underrated producers in the Cote de Beaune, according to the #1 authority on Burgundy wine today. Burghound gave it 90-93 if you are interested. This is a no-brainer as an old boss of mine would say when he ran across deals like this one. This has ripe, sappy and dense fruit, the brilliant 2012 volume on the palate in spades, covered with beautiful tannins, some sauvage/animal aromas and flavors and intense stoney minerality.  It is uber complex and has super intense fruit and so much purity and sap. For $40 you will not find a higher quality Pinot Noir in Burgundy.


2008 Billard-Gonet 1er Cru Pommard Rugiens Bas - $59.99 
($233.96 4-pack)

2012 Billard-Gonet 1er Cru Pommard Chaponnieres "Vieilles Vignes" - $43.99 ($159.96 4-pack)

Mix and match on 4 bottles for best price

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