Today, I am thrilled to offer two wines from Thierry Germain, one of the hottest, if not the hottest, producers in the Loire. Germain is incredibly popular in France (many even whisper that his wines have vaulted past than those from the legendary Clos Rougeard). He used to make highly extracted wines in 2004, 2005, 2006 and then he saw the light and fast forward to now and he is considered the top Chenin/Cab Franc guy in France now. They cannot get enough of him,My allocation of the first wine is 12% of Thierry Germain's production (only 533 bottles made - I got more in 2012); even 3 Michelin Star Chefs have strict allocations. This is as cult as it gets in France and I am very lucky to be able to offer the 2012 Domaine des Roches Neuves (Thierry German) "Clos de Romans" Saumur-Champigny Blanc for $64.99 a 3 pack. This is arguably of one the highest quality dry Chenin Blancs in all of France, if not the world. It is a massively concentrated yet so fine, filigreed and elegant with a stunningly scented nose. The acidity is fantastic and lets the almond, pear and mineral tones linger for a very long time. This is a dry Chenin with the persistence of Grand Cru Cote de Beaune but also is the most Riesling-esque Chenin I have ever had the privilege to taste. Thierry Germain believes the 11th century walled vineyard it comes from is one of the most special sites in the world. Think Corton-Charlemagne meets Saumur Blanc meets racy Rheinhessen Grosses Gewachs and that is probably short changing this brilliant wine,
In France, many think this is a better wine than the Clos Rougeard "Breze." For me it is just as good, if not better (the riesling quality puts it over the top for me), but made in a different style. This wine is impossible to obtain. So what are you getting here? A 100% selection massale from an 11th century walled parcel. The wine is aged in 400 liter oval casks with 9 months of aging on the lees. If Breze is more influenced by wood, this is just pure, explosive Chenin Blanc with limitless complexity. It needs an hour or two to get going but once it does, you are in for a thrill ride. The wine is insane, and for my palate I'd rather drink this than any other Chenin currently being produced. It is finer in my opinion than all of them and more polished but perfectly expresses its terroir with zero wood influence.It is incredible wine and the lucky few who get some of my allocation should treasure this bottle. 2010 was the first vintage and I think 2012 is better than '11 or '10 but it is splitting hairs. This is very limited and will be allocated.
I also have a very limited amount of the 2012 Domaine des Roches Neuves Saumur-Champigny "Franc de Pied" for $49.99 on the 3-pack. These are original French rootstock and not grafted onto American rootstock. This is very very rare and Franc de Pied (the term in French) wines have a texture that is unlike anything in the world of wine. Creamy is the word that comes up most yet with uncanny precision. It is quite a juxtaposition. The texture of these ungrafted vines is something to behold. I have read and heard about all the bottles of pre-phyloxxera Bordeaux from last century and get green with envy and then realize I could never afford the stuff anyway and if I could it probably would be fake. Ha! But for $49.99 you can have a taste of history and what wine with extreme textural precision that gives you a hint of what wine used to taste like. I also find that wines made from ungrafted wines have an aromatic sparkle that is unique to them. This is one of the greatest Franc de Pied wines I have ever had as the combination of purity, freshness, precision, depth and refinement are extremely rare for the somewhat wild and untamed Cabernet Franc grape. This is, and I hate to use the word, but it really applies here, Burgundian to the max. It is so elegant, ripe, pure and just plain thrilling wine.
2012 Domaine des Roches Neuves Saumur-Champigny "Franc de Pied" - $52.99
($149.97 3-pack)
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