Friday, June 20, 2014

The Elegant, Beautiful Side of Cornas - Under $40 for a 4 Star Wine from John Livingstone Learmouth

When I started to put this portfolio together one of the most important things to me was that if I was  I have accomplished that with the introduction of the elegant, precise 2012 Jacques Lemenicier Cornas, which can be had for as little as $36.99 on the 4-pack.  An absolute steal that would be over $50 in the 3 tier system. John Livingstone, arguably the greatest English language expert on the Rhone, gave this 4 out of 5 stars (he is notoriously stingy).
going to say, have 2 Cornas producers, I would want them to be totally different stylistically.

Lemenicier's Cornas is the stylistic opposite of my other Cornas producer, Nicolas Serette, which is a bigger, richer, more concentrated wine, Lemenicier is more restrained, elegant style that is incredibly pretty and floral, with touches of meat, licorice and blood but in a medium-bodied frame.  The flavors of his 2012 are particularly compelling with truffle and chocolate notes that linger and linger on the long, winding finish.
The acidity keeps the whole package fresh as a daisy. The texture snakes and slides on the palate and leads to a very concentrated finish. Terrific, terrific wine.  

It can be drunk now but has the structure to age for 15+ years.   I love Syrah that is fresh with high acidity from appellations that maybe are expected to have bigger wines. I bet everyone wished they bought more of the 2010 Chateau de Puy from Bordeaux as it drinks more like a Burgundy than a thick, lactic Bordeaux, but still stays true to its Bordeaux heritage. This has all what I look for in Cornas, except you can drink it right now. Wines that can be drunk now and can be aged are rare, although that does seem to be the trend in Barolo now, but I don't see it as a trend in Cornas. Jacques' wines are as authentic as Cornas gets with an emphasis on the elegant side that you just don't see that much anymore. The wine is almost Burgundian which is a very good thing.
 
Jacques is a very enthusiastic guy that has really worked hard to get where he is.  I had a great time meeting him when I was in the Rhone this spring.  He started for a brief time to work for the legendary Robert Michel at 17. Jacques then worked for 9 years at the famous Alain Voge estate. This man is a lifer in the vines.  He bought 3.5 hectares of Cornas and another 3.5 hectares of St. Peray. His Domaine was created in 1994 and the age of his vines is 20-90 years old. There is no new oak on this wine and the age of the barrels varies between 3 and 6 years old and they are large 228 liter casks. He is old school all the way.

2012 Jacques Lemenicier Cornas - $38.99 ($147.96 4-pack)

No comments:

Post a Comment