Friday, July 25, 2014

Amazing Old, Old, Old, Old Vine St. Joseph Inclunding the Legendary Trollat Vineyards Under $25

As I was wandering along the Salon des Vins this past February in Tain l'Hermitage, I happened upon
a table where there was a young man pouring St. Joseph red and white, and what caught my eye was that the label said St. Joseph from Domaine de la Cote St. Epine. One of my favorite winemakers, Herve Souhaut, made St. Epine. I tasted two wines; one red and one white. The winemaker's name was Mikael Desestret and his wines were utterly brilliant. The best St. Joseph's I tasted at the Salon and there was serious competition (I have added some of that competition to my portfolio). But these St. Joseph's tasted special to me. They had that extra length, extra finesse, extra expressiveness that only the best wines have. Two of his six hectares are from the revered and famous/cult St. Joseph producer Raymond Trollat (see The New York Times Eric Asimov's article on Trollat here).

I am very psyched to offer the 2012 Domaine de la Cote St. Epine "Vieilles Vignes for as little as $24.99 a four pack. It is just an amazing Syrah for such a low price. It has a mineral and airy nose that became way complex with air.  It has a super traditional St. Joseph nose with plenty of game and blood. The palate was layered and complex with waves of fruit and gorgeous purity. This though had such amazing finesse I kept coming back for more. It glides across my palate. Man was this pure. Long finish and the quality of tannin was extraordinary.  I'd rank with among the best St. Josephs I've had, and those go for $35-$50 through the 3 tier system so this is a great deal, sourced direct from the winery.

Mikael also makes a white wine that had me groaning loudly at the tasting (those of you who have tasted with me will vouch that I be quite enthusiastic if I like a wine). The 2013 Domaine de la Cote St. Epine St. Joseph Blanc, which can be had for as little as $23.99 on a four pack is extraordinary. This might have surprised me even more than the red. It is brilliant, mineral, and has tremendous acidity. It is elegant like you will not believe and has stunning freshness. Just a great white Rhone, which is a category I hope will become more popular once people start tasting more of the ones I am bringing in.  I was early on dry German wines...and that has turned out ok for all concerned.

Mikael studied winemaking in Beaune and graduated in 1996.  His family has owned most of his vineyards for over 100 years, (some of them are 130 years old!) and he convinced them to start bottling their own wine as opposed to selling in bulk (to Delas Frères).  When he has to replant some vines the young vine juice (less then 10 years old) is sold off to a negociant.

The wines are gaining in popularity but are still relatively unknown, hence their low price.  Quality is very important here as is attention to detail; Mikael is proud of his family's terroir and wants it to shine though.  He initially had 4 hectares and then took over 2 hectares from the revered and famous/cult St. Joseph producer Raymond Trollat. The rest of Trollat's vines went to the Gonon brothers. That is some exquisite and singular terroir Mikael got as Trollat was the Chave/DRC/Vega Sicilia of St. Joseph and his wines are impossible to find. They are the cultiest of the traditional Northern Rhone guys like Verset and Gentaz-Dervieux.  I've seen one bottle in my life. That client I know is reading this.

It was funny tasting these wines and then finding out after the fact that he got 2 hectares from Trollat.

St. Joseph to me is the most exciting region in the Rhone now. So many quality producers finally making great wine. Young up and comers mostly but also some new talent that France has known about for some time that is finally coming over here. There will be more.

2013 Domaine de la St. Cote Epine St. Joseph Blanc - $26.99 
($95.96 4-pack)

2012 Domaine de la St. Cote Epine St. Joseph "Vieilles Vignes" 
- $27.99 ($99.96 4-pack) (LIMITED) 

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