The wines are unapologetically old school and traditional but are not inaccessible. They benefit tremendously from aging and will age longer than most burgs in your cellar but they can be drunk young with a healthy decant or opening well before they are served. But these are, make no mistake, built for long aging. It is also a treat to work with Phillipe because Burgundy is about trends and Phillipe does not care about trends. The wines are made the same way as they always have been. He also has a wonderful and plentiful stock of inventory from recent vintages.
Allen Meadows says this about the Billard-Gonnet estate.
"I have said this before but it bears repeating: Philippe Billard runs what is one of the most under-rated domaines in the entire Côte de Beaune. The wines are old school but not especially rustic or austere and they are unapologetically built for long-term aging. I am often asked exactly which domaines do I put in my personal cellar; well, Billard is one of them." - Burghound
Today I am offering two of Phillipe's best wines from two of the best vintages of the past 20 years at prices that just are ridiculous. These wines are very different and illustrate Phillipe's ability to take what nature gives him and make beautiful wines that are very distinctive.
The first is the 2010 Pommard 1er Cru "Pezerolles" for as little as $37.99 on the 4-pack. Yes you read that right. This is a 92 point Burghound 1er Cru from a great village for $37.99. Perfectly stored in the Billard-Gonnet cellar. This is unheard of! His Pommards are so elegant yet still have the brawn that makes Pommard Pommard. The nose is crazy complex already with berry fruit and tons of spice and flowers. It is a ridiculous nose that you can get lost in. The palate is all freshness with that silky texture only Burgundy can get. The finish is mineral, saline and long. This is class in a glass and all elegance. The Pezerolles signature is strong as 2010 is so beautifully transparent. This is as Allen Meadows says "more Beaune than Pommard," which I agree wholeheartedly. The wine is great now but will be much better in 10 years. This might be the best cellar time/quality QPR I have ever offered at Fass Selections.
Next up is more limited and maybe even crazier. It is the 2012 Pommard 1er Cru "Rugiens Bas" for as little as $55.99 on a 3-pack (compare at $70). Simply put this is his best wine in the best vintage for Pommard since 2010, 2005, 2002 and 1999, but personally I think 2012 is the best of those five vintages. Wait till you taste them. Just so complete. It is 91-94 from Burghound and needs time. A lot of time. As Rugiens Bas is the best vineyard in Pommard, and combine that with Billard-Gonnet's old school style this is a wine for the cellar. An easy 50 year wine. Don't drink this young. It is 5% of what it will be. It's got one of those noses that you coax and coax until you get a dazzling array of complexity. Super stoney. Huge. Intense. Mineral. Chewy. Big but polished and not rustic. The balance is insane despite how huge it is. A classic Rugiens Bas to throw in the back of the cellar. You will be rewarded. This is very limited.
Below is a Billard quote from Burghound about 2012.
'As to the 2012 vintage, Billard succinctly told me that "it's a nice enough vintage but the problem is that there just isn't very much of it to be had. What I find interesting about the vintage is that we were able to obtain such excellent raw materials despite the fact that Mother Nature was in such a foul mood for so much of the growing season. We had poor weather for the flowering, hail and cool temperatures until the end of July when we had a serious heat wave that sun-burned any exposed fruit. Still, we were lucky after all because even though it was a tiny crop the fruit was ripe and thus the vinifications were easy and straight forward with no problems worth mentioning. I like the wines as they're rich, generous and concentrated yet they express pretty well the underlying terroir, which is after all the point."' - Burghound
2010 Billard-Gonnet Pommard 1er Cru "Pezerolles" - $39.99
($151.96 4-pack)
2012 Billard-Gonet Pommard 1er Cru "Rugiens Bas" - $59.99
($167.97 3-pack) (Limited)
No comments:
Post a Comment