This has to be one of the most unique wines in the world. Like a hypothetical blend between old school Cote-Rotie (think Levet, Gallet, Gentaz) and old-school Bordeaux (Cantemerle, Domaine de Chevalier, La Mission Haut Brion) all wrapped up with that lovely Provencal garrigue. If more people knew what this was, the price would be triple.
Winemaker Eloi Durrbach is an icon in winemaking circles. He planted vines in the Alpilles in 1973 before anybody else did. Eloi's father in 1955 bought the famous farmhouse at Trevallon with 60 acres of scrubland surrounding it. One problem, it was all surrounded by rock. Eloi and his son dynamited the rock out of the way, planted the plots to 3 acres in 1973, and the first bottling of Trevallon was 1976.
His wines are allocated and snapped up by top restaurants for their lists. As such, they are almost impossible to find (especially the whites) and old bottles are incredibly rare. They are wines of incredible concentration and depth yet with remarkable balance and finesse. Durrbach is considered to have some of the best vineyard management skills of any winemaker; his cellar work allows the terroir and fruit quality to shine through.
The red is Syrah and Cabernet and always needs 15 years to really get there and in some vintages like '98 or '89 even 20+ years. One of the best blind wines ever as it throws everyone off. I was embarrassed when I had one the other night but that is how blind tasting goes. The wine is not de-stemmed, indigenous yeasts are used, there is no temperature control and then they sit in old oak for 20-25 months after a two week maceration. Old school winemaking by Eloi Durrbach brings old school wines and one of France's most unique and classy and undervalued reds.
I have 3 vintages today and this is one of the wineries in the world where I can confidently say there are no bad vintages. Some age longer than others but I have never had even remotely a bad bottle of Trevallon. Young bottles? Sure, but never anything but high quality, old school French character wines with incredible ability to age.
The 2004 Domaine de Trevallon VDP des Bouches-du-Rhone ($67.99 on 3) is a brilliant wine from a terrific vintage in Provence and is just starting to drink well now. The wild aromas of the Syrah are showing on the nose now and the palate still with firm tannins, has somewhat resolved to that silky, sexy almost Pomerol texture that Trevallon is known for. Beautiful purity and freshness but still just entering adolescence with a long life ahead of it.
The 2006 Domaine de Trevallon VDP des Bouches-du-Rhone ($59.99 on 3) is gorgeous right now. This is one to PNP (pop and pour). 2006 is an up front vintage and so good right now. Huge fruit, tarry leathery notes, garrigue, silky supple succulent tannins and light for a Trevallon but in no means a light wine. This is a terrific bottle of Trevallon for people who can't wait and want it now.
I also have some of the 2011 Domaine de Trevallon VDP des Bouches-du-Rhone ($54.99 on 3), which I chose because it is a terrific vintage, akin to 08 in Burgundy or 01 in the Côte de Nuits. A vintage that took a while to get its reputation. Still a bit young but if you can get past that, it can be drunk now with a 2 hour decant as 11 is very upfront but still a burly youngster. A tween we could call it.
2004 Domaine de Trevallon VDP des Bouches-du-Rhone - $69.99
($203.97 3-pack)
2006 Domaine de Trevallon VDP des Bouches-du-Rhone - $61.99
($179.97 3-pack)
2011 Domaine de Trevallon IGP Alpilles - $57.99
($164.97 3-pack)
($164.97 3-pack)
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