Climate Change and the New Wine Regions

There is no doubt that global temperatures have risen over their averages in the 1940-1980 period.  I offer no explanation for this, no recommendations and no predictions as to future (I’m a wine importer, not a politician or scientist).  But this increase in temperature has had a profound impact on the wine world.

What has been discussed is the impact on well recognized wine regions.  Burgundy, for example has far fewer years where it struggles to attain sufficient ripeness.  The Southern Rhone wines are riper, fruitier and more alcoholic than ever before.

What has not received much discussion is that these higher temperatures have pushed certain regions from being borderline in terms of their ability to produce wines of sufficient ripeness to allowing them to consistently produce wines with optimal ripeness.  

Burgundy’s last washout vintage was probably 1997. Although Jadot killed it but in general that is the last complete disaster.  

Some of these newer regions have always had good terroir.  Now they are making excellent wines and, because they are less well known because of their historical struggles, offer incredible values as compared to more well established regions.  

Irancy

Irancy has, near chablis in the northern tip of Burgundy, has always had good terroir but struggled with ripeness.  The wines were often green except in very hot years.  Now, they are consistently producing delicious wines with wonderful minerality and a touch of rusticity.

Germany - Franken and Baden

While parts of Baden were able to make good red wine, they are now home to several world class wineries including Enderle & Moll and Mobitz.  What is perhaps more surprising is further north, Franken is producing truly stunning wines.  Sebastien Fuerst has led the way with his bottlings from the great Centgrafenberg and Hundsruck vineyards.  His friend and neighbor Christoff Walter is now making stunning Grand Cru quality wines for a fraction of the cost of their brethren in Burgundy.  One grower told me that his father used to pick his grapes at 75 oechsle (a measure of ripeness) whereas he now picks at 95 oechsle.  

Dry German Riesling

Many areas of Germany have also had to adapt. It was too cool in the 80’s to make that much great dry Riesling but now in the Pfalz, Mosel, Rheinessen, Wurtttemberg and even Franken there is an ocean of great dry Riesling and that is because it takes warmer vintages to make great dry Riesling. It also has, in the Mosel, opened up attention to sites that are in the valleys near the more famous vineyards. These sites did not get enough sun but now they do. Places like Veldenz, Wittlich and Muhlheim are making some of the Mosel’s best dry wines now. 20 years ago you did not want to go near these sites.

Conclusion

I believe that ultimately, this represents a fundamental shift for the wine world.  Importers and consumers need to take notice of these changes and start to experiment with new regions that offer significant buying opportunities.  As an importer, I’m putting my money where my mouth is, traveling to these regions ( on my own dime) and offering these wines to my clients.